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Routes in Potrero John

Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cleaning Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menage a Trois S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Miccis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Potrero Traverse V2 5+
Should I Go (aka El Potrero) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Should I Stay S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Route On The Right TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Rose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard (lead traditionally, without bolts!)
Page Views: 344 total · 2/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 16, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Once again, a very fun route on good rock in an idyllic setting.

There is one insecure and poorly protected move before the second bolt. Fall from here and you will not fare well. The Edwards book says to bring small stoppers, but it is not clear where protection can be had at this point.

Protection

4 bolts (you'll long for another) to anchors. The Edwards guidebook says to bring along small pro, but this additional pro is difficult to place well. Tri-cams are helpful.

Update: As of October 2006, someone has replaced all four lead bolts with 3/8" Rawl-style expansion bolts.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
According to tests done by Duane Raleigh (published in Climbing Magazine, Oct. 1992), the type of bolt used on "Menage a Trois" has functionally no strength in 2000psi rock (rock which is TWICE as hard as Poterro John's sandstone). For more info, see Anchors Away Jul 11, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
FA: Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard, 1976. Variation: start left of climb, connect at second bolt.

Take care getting to the second bolt if leading! Jan 19, 2009
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
FA: Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard, 1976. I sure do respect those climbing icons. that's why I would never add bolts to their route, yet unless it was their own bolt being added.

I lead that thing in 95'. Mar 2, 2009
Mike Stearns
  5.10-
Mike Stearns  
  5.10-
I was able to place 3-4 bomber cams in addition to clipping the bolts.

My rack: Met master cam purp - red
BD C3 purp and green

Not sure which I placed exactly. Nov 21, 2011
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
Funny I lead it just with the bolts before I read these comments. A little run out but safe. Don't fall making the second clip you will deck but it's a pretty good stance for clipping. Had I read this first I would have brought some gear. Such an awesome route! Aug 3, 2016

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