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Routes in Potrero John

Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cleaning Lady S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menage a Trois S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Miccis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Potrero Traverse V2 5+
Should I Go (aka El Potrero) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Should I Stay S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Route On The Right TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Rose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Unknown, early 90s
Page Views: 956 total, 7/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 16, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sustained climbing up edges, with a distinct one-move 10c crux passing the first bolt. There is a second 5.10- crux that occurs with the fifth bolt well below your feet.

Interesting movement. Good rock.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.

Photos

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andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.10c
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.10c
The crux down low features some bad feet and a fantastic "mini" roof which you can undercling or gaston. After that, there's a nice romp up a right-trending edge-system. At the top of the edge-system, you will find a flat ledge, about eight inches wide. You might cop a rest here, but keep in mind that the edge isn't long for this world. I could easily flex it about 1/16-1/8 out from the wall with mild hand pressure. Take care! Other than that, this route sports excellent rock. Feb 17, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
A decisive foothold finally fell off at the crux of this route. The 10c sequence past the first bolt is now a few moves instead of simply one hard move. Jan 12, 2012
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
nice small feature for good edging kind'a rock climb. Mar 16, 2009
The other one to the right is called Cleaning Lady. FA was in 99 by myself and Dan Frame. We rated it 10.C. Dec 11, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
There are actually 2 routes now to the right of Menage a Trois, Rubber Man and another one that isn't listed in the Edwards guidebook. Both are about 5.10c. Jun 4, 2006