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Routes in Potrero John

Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cleaning Lady S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menage a Trois S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Miccis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Potrero Traverse V2 5+
Should I Go (aka El Potrero) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Should I Stay S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Route On The Right TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Rose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Bruce Hendricks & Carol Wiede (1982)
Page Views: 1,299 total · 9/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 16, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting climbing including long reaches between positive edges and deep pockets.

An interesting variation is to climb the face 6 feet left of Miccis (5.9+). Traverse right into the second bolt and follow Miccis to the top. This variation actually gets its own name ("Pro Job"), although it's hardly its own route. The lead is sketchy getting to the second bolt of Miccis--mostly a TR.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors. This route simply doesn't feel as cozy and comfortable as Zyzzxx.

Update: As of October 2006, someone has replaced all four lead bolts with 3/8" Rawl-style expansion bolts.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Until I climbed Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) I would have agreed with Matthew. While Miccis is fun and a great lead, Migrating Coconuts has better flow and consistently more entertaining moves. May 30, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
I think this gets my vote as the best climb at the crag. Very fun. Jun 1, 2010
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
nice contrived full of features sorta climb. Mar 16, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
According to tests done by Duane Raleigh (published in Climbing Magazine, Oct. 1992), the type of bolt used on "Miccis" has functionally no strength in 2000psi rock (rock which is TWICE as hard as Poterro John's sandstone). For more info, see Anchors Away Jul 11, 2006

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