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Routes in Potrero John

Beginnings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cleaning Lady S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menage a Trois S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Miccis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Potrero Traverse V2 5+
Should I Go (aka El Potrero) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Should I Stay S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Route On The Right TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Rose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 469 total, 41/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Dec 14, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thornberry is the big expando flake on the far left side of Potrero John. Continuous pro and thoughtful positioning make this a safe and fun route.

Starts as a flared corner (still a tad dirty) before arcing right on a meaty undercling flake. Pull over the flake and continue up the slab to anchors. Shares station with Should I Stay and Should I Go.

Location

Giant flake on far left side of wall.

Protection

Singles .5 to 4 (BD sizes)

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Hah, Matthew, how funny! I initially thought of Wild Rose too before going with Wild Thornberry and then trimming (pun intended) to just Thornberry. Let's go with Wild Rose.

Appreciate the input, Alex. Dec 16, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Romain and I cleaned and led the crack more than a decade ago. We were calling it Wild Rose, due to the plant growing from the crack.

We never thought to claim a first ascent. We assumed it had been climbed by a previous generation. There's a bolt above where the crack ends. Dec 15, 2016
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
One thing to keep in mind is that climbers have been hunting for lines along the Sespe for sixty years. Given that it's a moderate crack, right off the road, and about twenty feet from an old Chouinard/Barber route, it has very likely been done.

That said, it is undocumented. My advice would be to keep the name, and record the FA as an unknown. This way you get to contribute something while at the same time respecting generations passed. Dec 15, 2016
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Matthew: found multiple generations of thornbush residents and a thick coating of moss. Do you have info on earlier ascents? If so I can update. I thought it was a fun lil route that deserved to be cleaned and shared. Dec 15, 2016
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
 
Joe Garibay   Ventura, Ca
 
Happy it's clean. Thanks. Dec 14, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Did you not find evidence of a previous ascent? Dec 14, 2016