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5.10b, Sport, 80 ft,
Avg: 2.8 from 16 votes
FA: Matt Polk, Dan Frame, Sasha Binford (1999)
California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Potrero John
Very nice face climbing on edges and sharp features (the holds have not yet weathered to the rounded, slopey holds of the other routes nearby).
Distinct crux encounter up high--with the bolt at your feet. Sustained from the fifth bolt to the end.
Right of Rubber Man--starts in a right-trending seam.
7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
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Alex Barnett on Cleaning Lady
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excellent new route!
Mar 16, 2009
This route feels a grade easier than Menage a Trois and at least two grades easier than Rubber Man...5.10a?
Jul 28, 2010
I enjoyed this even more than Rubber Man. Surprisingly sustained climbing up high! Also a little bit longer than Rubber Man.
Feb 17, 2013
I'm open to the possibility that I missed some beta on this route, but I spent quite a while falling and staring at the wall between bolts 6 and 7, and I do not think the boltline still goes at 5.10- or 5.10b. I'm thinking 5.11something. 11b? It's a combo of thin or slopey hands and mossy bad feet. It looks like alot of rock has come off this area recently, so maybe that's where the 5.10 feet went to. If so, there is a new crux and it is not well protected, but at least the fall is pretty clean. The climbing down low was really fun. Please set me straight if I'm way off here.
Nov 17, 2014
Nope, it definitely 5.10. Just tricky.
Nov 17, 2014