Avg: 3.8 from 39 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Jack Maxwell, Ben Ales, and Rocky Keeler, 1968|
|Page Views:||6,364 total · 40/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Dec 2, 2007 · Updates|
Near the center of the cliff is a wide flake/crack. Just to the right of this obvious feature is the first pitch crack. Climb this past a troublesome section about midway, then find a comfortable belay out to the right on a nice, small ledge. 5.9+ / 100 feet
Above, climb the thin finger crack in lower-angled rock to the crux finish right below a nice island of trees. Be AwareYou will finish at the tree ledge with a sizeable boulder/flake. Above you will be the left-facing corner of Aerie (5.10b). Thrash through some bushy tree shrubs to the right to reach the beginning of the 3rd pitch belay for TOC. 5.9 / 60 feet
Layback the finger crack in the left-facing corner until it opens up into a squeeze chimney. Try not to get your torso stuck in here. Finish over a small bulge in a handcrack to easier ground which takes you to a scenic, rectangular belay ledge with bolts. Strenous 5.9 / 100 feet
Finish above in a nice, but short handcrack. Take this to the trees, fight through these then finish on easier ground to the top of the cliff. 5.8 / 100 feet
Alternately, one can take the finger crack out to the right. This path requires some patience, and a deft ability to clean while you climb. Be prepared for some dirt climbing with less than optimal gear at the very top of this alternate last pitch. Good, but needs a serious enema. 5.10 / 100 feet.
A wide array of gear is necessary to complete this route. Carry along a full set of cams to #4 Camalot-size (doubles on middle sizes), plus a good assortment of stoppers and RPs. Two cordolettes with several lockers are also a good idea. A single 70-meter rope is suitable to rappel the route by traversing to the top of Brass Balls for the last rappel to the ground.