Moss Cliff Rock Climbing
Routes in Moss Cliff
|A Touch of Class T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13|
|Creation of the World T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Falconer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Fear of touching Aerie T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Hard Times T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Mistah Luthah T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|GPS:||44.34, -73.9 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||joe frankel on Oct 8, 2006|
DescriptionAccess note: fording Ausable River to access cliff is necessary. There is a tyrolean cable in place currently (10/06); also check for seasonal peregrine closures.
Check that--the Tyrolean Cable is gone.
Moss Cliff--a 500 foot shield of bullet-proof anorthosite that sits atop Wilmington Notch overlooking Route 86 and the Ausable River. Although this cliff is situated less than a mile from the climbers lot, it's committing reputation is rivaled by few other crags in the Adirondacks due to its surprising remoteness and shear faces.
Many stellar lines soar up the numerous cracks of this cliff, and most recently, the hardest lines in the Adirondacks--Illuminescence (13d) and Fire in the Sky (13c)--were unlocked here. Routes such as Hard Times (5.9+), A Touch of Class (5.9+), and Creation of the World (5.11), stand testament to the varied and unique beauty of long, free routes in the Adirondacks.
If it is your first visit to the cliff, don't underestimate it-- This is not a cliff to be toiled with. Many of the routes are stout and require climbers to top out. This makes for a true adventure, as the rap station is on the far left (climbers' left) end of the cliff hidden in a gully and guarded by a treacherous bushwhack.
Make sure you get and early start, and be sure to check for closures, as this cliff is closed for a good portion of the spring and summer months for peregrine nesting.
Getting ThereRt 86 just east of Lake Placid. Park at lot below cliff. There is a sign for Climber/Grimper in the correct pull-out. Before the Tyrolean cable broke in October of '06, one could cross the river directly below the climbers' lot; now, you must walk upriver about 1/4 mile to a shallower section of water in order to cross. Once on the other side, walk uphill along a faint climber's path for about 20 minutes to the base of cliff. Creation of the World and Children and Alcohol are just around to the right; Touch of Class, Aerie, and Hard Times just left.
Classic Climbing Routes at Moss Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season