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Routes in Moss Cliff

A Touch of Class T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Creation of the World T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Falconer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of touching Aerie T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Times T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mistah Luthah T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 380 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Henry Barber, Dave Cilley
Page Views: 4,161 total, 41/month
Shared By: Michael John Gray on Aug 17, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1 Scramble up the Fourth Class tree covered ramp to a birch tree. (40' 4th class) Pitch 2 Climb the hand crack up 15' to the right facing corner to low angle facey cracks straight up to the tree island ledge with a fixed anchor. (140' 5.9) Pitch 3 Gulp! Climb the chimney/right facing corner to a hand and finger crack. Continue up the corner through the buldge.... To some face right of the corner and a final offwidth short to a nice ledge... Whoa.. Hard (9+? 150') Pitch 4 Up handcracks to ledge and 10' left to fixed anchor. (50' 5.9) Rap with two ropes to tree island ledge and again to the ground.

Location

approx 50' left of Touch of Class

Protection

Full rack, #5 cam...

Photos

Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
  5.9+
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
  5.9+
p3 is wicked good. Sustained, varied, and that heart-breaker off-width at the top! Dec 8, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.9+
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.9+
Such a great line. Definitely one of my favorite climbs anywhere. On P2 after the stellar(although short) corner lieback, you can face/friction climb out left instead of climbing the dirty crack. P3 throws all sorts of challenges at you and keeps your attention the whole way. I traversed out to the optional belay(Spirit of Adventure) to shake out and was surprised by the balancy moves required to get back into the corner below the crux. Nov 1, 2012
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b PG13
I've climbed a lot of 5.9+...and this is not it! Jan 30, 2012
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
When my partner and I did this we didn't have an idea on what to bring in terms of gear for the wide sections. Hopefully this will help anyone else nervous about this. A #5 C4 can go in the chimney on pitch 3 but isn't necessary as gear is below and above. An acceptable #6 C4 placement can be found the off-width at the top of pitch 3 but also is not necessary as gear can be found below and above. Sep 27, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
On pitch 3, one can alternately choose to stop and belay their second on the chain anchor on the ledge out left right after the chimney section. This is the anchor for "Spirit of Adventure". Sep 21, 2009