Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Moss Cliff

A Touch of Class T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Creation of the World T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Falconer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of touching Aerie T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Times T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mistah Luthah T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Linkup of several existing climbs, no first ascent listed
Page Views: 1,242 total, 24/month
Shared By: AJV on Sep 10, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pitch 1 - Same as pitch 1 of Touch of class. This pitch involves some boldish laybacking to start your day. As always, beware the "+". Gear belay.

Pitch 2 - Climb up from the left side of the ledge for about 10 feet and then traverse left to the 5.9 Aerie crack and up to the tree island ledge. Belay off slings on a birch tree.

Pitch 3 - The money pitch. Climb the left-facing corner directly above the belay. It eventually goes overhanging and the crack disappears, but stemming and smearing will let you escape right. It's not over yet! Traverse right across thin vertical cracks on slabby terrain to reach the Touch of Class left-facing corner. Keep some small gear - 0.2 and lower. RPs are useful too. Finish at a ledge with a rare ADK bolted belay.

Pitch 4 - Climb straight up the nice finger cracks. The crux is low on this pitch. Eventually reach a dirty ledge you can traverse left on for about 25 feet to another bolted belay.

Location

Directly ahead from the approach trail. About 10 feet to the right of a right-facing corner.

Protection

The gear is generally good and easy to find. The traverse on P3 is a little tricky, but protects well if you keep enough very small gear.
MasterBeta .  
 
p1 and 2 can be combined with a 60. Save a #1 C4 for the top of the Aerie corner, bomber. Oct 17, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10c
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10c
Calf burner! I think the new guidebook says belay just above the corner but I would really recommend going another 30 feetish to the ledge as the hangingish belay is not very comfortablish. Such a rad route and position! I imagine this traverse people are doing involves some heinous rope drag after the stellar corner. I would recommend either going straight up then slightly right through the traditional Airy route at 5.10 A0 or mossy 12a if your bushwacking moss jungle beast! The other option is to continue up the Aerie finger cracks and traverse left into the 5.9+ Chimney route which is no harder than 10a if that. (Hard times is it?) Tyrolean is in place still and bombadeer! Aug 3, 2017
bradley white   Bend
Jim Shimberg and I came here in 1987. We got a really late start and did a treacherous river crossing that brought us north from easy access to this ledge. the swimming is better at the parking spot than crossing north on this river. Our climb started fourth class left side of prow and we found a left facing corner that had to be face climbed with difficultly of 5.10 to get into it from the right, by traversing left towards gear in corner then passing gear to reach wtf nuisance tree that was untouchable. After tree was a foot rest left of it by the corner. from there up above tree to next pitch belay. stemming up left facing corner with bulge or curving crack on face left of corner were third pitch options. I did corner and bulge. It was not hard to do 5.8 then up right with less gear to trees. close to top. it got darker. we retreated. we did no good getting there and could have been worse going back. we reached river swimming hole at dark. Man we could have swam there and finished the route that day. it was all excellent rock and surprising because it was harder than I thought it would ever be on first pitch. I don't know what first pitch left facing corner is by the route descriptions. It could be one of them already mentioned. It was a get lost moss cliff trip and I am still lost by the photos i have seen.
Jul 5, 2014
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  5.10c
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  5.10c
Gear: Green C3 to #3 blue C4. Doubles from tips [green Alien] to tight hands [#1 red C4].

P1: There is a spot on to place a 4" cam [old #4 C4] but can be protected with smaller cams below/right and above.

P3: Smearing, stemming, a heel hook and a hidden hand hold out right gets you out the corner. Climb up about 10-15' before you start the traverse.
A green and blue Alien protect the traverse perfectly. Sep 29, 2013
AJV
 
AJV  
 
The guidebook gives this climb 5.10b. I found that combining the 10b corner of Aerie with a difficult traverse through thin cracks probably bumped the pitch up a letter grade. Sep 10, 2013