Type: Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Aug. 1994. Dominic Eisinger, Patrick Purcell/
Page Views: 430 total · 28/month
Shared By: Trevor Livingston on Oct 25, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Engaging and worthwhile route that ascends the arete left of Hard Times.

p1: Begin up corner of p3 hard times but cut left towards the arete on a rail about 15 feet up (no pro on traverse, bolt on other side of arete is hard to see in the moment...find it before you start the pitch). Bust a couple of moves to gain the slabby arete proper with some bolts. Gain a short but sweet finger crack, then cruise to the bolted anchors at a good stance above. Fantastic exposure and moves. 80' 11a

p2: This one is a bit odd. Traverse carefully to the bolt left and down from belay, then bust up a shallow corner to an overlap/ bulge. Keep climbing left to another bolt, then negotiate the seams above (tricky route finding with adequate but small and thoughtful gear), trending generally back right until you reach a thin horizontal crack. Traverse back right on this thin horizontal until you meet two splitter cracks heading up and build a (gear) belay here. At this point you realize you have not gained much vertical distance, say hi to your belayer! Belay is hanging and quite uncomfortable. Tricky and full value pitch despite its length. 50' 11a

p3: Classic! Negotiate finger cracks with excellent locks and some reachy moves to a sweet 'n steep hand crack bulge! Dance up the lower angle top out reach a beautiful ledge with a bolted anchor. As good as anything at the web. 80' 11a

Descent: Rappel route. With two 60m ropes we were able to rap once to the bottom of the first pitch of the climb (tree island ledge), then once more to the base of the cliff.

Location

Part way up the cliff on tree island ledge! Climbs the arete left of Hard Times. Start up first two pitches of Hard Times or Touch of Class, or one long pitch up the huge right facing corner of Red Zinger (10a).

Protection

Gear and Bolts. Standard rack, emphasis in finger and smaller. Very small nuts and cams for p2.

Photos