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Routes in Moss Cliff
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A Touch of Class T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Creation Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Creation of the World T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Falconer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fear of touching Aerie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hard Times T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mistah Luthah T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Mossiah, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spirit of Adventure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Alan Long, Andy Embick, Al Rubin, 9/6/76. |
| Page Views: | 1,774 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | rocknice2 on Aug 26, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Another great route on Moss Cliff. Expect everything ranging from fingers to chimney climbing.
P1; Same as Touch of Class. Start up a wet right facing corner until a hard move sends you slightly left to a left facing corner. Exit onto a nice ledge and construct a belay. 5.9+ / 100'.
P2; Traverse the ledge right for about 20 feet to a shallow right facing corner with 2 dirty cracks. Climb up and make a long step right to another crack. The steep crack goes from thin to wide hands before finally reaching a cozy tree belay ledge. Gear to #3 C4's. 5.10- / 80' Note: ADK Rock topo says OW but this is a typo. It's only wide hands.
V2.1: Traverse the ledge right for about 15 feet until it's possible to make some easy balance moves [dubious medium RP] up to a left facing corner. Keep traversing right along a foot rail to a good hold and bomber gear. Make a long step right to the vertical crack. I found this to be cleaner with less rope drag.
P3; Start the right crack in Squamish style. Transition to the left crack and make a few hard moves to a great rest stance. Above you now is an ominous 4.5" OW. More hard moves to get into it, then it eases as you bust a few face moves but you need to get back into it for a great finish at a good tree ledge. Gear to #5 double if you don't like pushing the cam along. 5.10 / 60'.
P4; Step up onto a pointy block and climb the right side cracks. Eventually you end up facing a wide chimney. Burrow deep into the cliff to exit at another treed ledge [optional belay to watch and laugh at your partner squeezing though]. Otherwise continue up to a very comfy bolted belay with great views of the valley. 5.6 / 80'.
P5; Climb the nice water worn cracks above to a dirty ledge. Protect the second then easy but dirty traverse left [keep protecting second] to a bolted rap anchor. 5.10- / 80'
P1; Same as Touch of Class. Start up a wet right facing corner until a hard move sends you slightly left to a left facing corner. Exit onto a nice ledge and construct a belay. 5.9+ / 100'.
P2; Traverse the ledge right for about 20 feet to a shallow right facing corner with 2 dirty cracks. Climb up and make a long step right to another crack. The steep crack goes from thin to wide hands before finally reaching a cozy tree belay ledge. Gear to #3 C4's. 5.10- / 80' Note: ADK Rock topo says OW but this is a typo. It's only wide hands.
V2.1: Traverse the ledge right for about 15 feet until it's possible to make some easy balance moves [dubious medium RP] up to a left facing corner. Keep traversing right along a foot rail to a good hold and bomber gear. Make a long step right to the vertical crack. I found this to be cleaner with less rope drag.
P3; Start the right crack in Squamish style. Transition to the left crack and make a few hard moves to a great rest stance. Above you now is an ominous 4.5" OW. More hard moves to get into it, then it eases as you bust a few face moves but you need to get back into it for a great finish at a good tree ledge. Gear to #5 double if you don't like pushing the cam along. 5.10 / 60'.
P4; Step up onto a pointy block and climb the right side cracks. Eventually you end up facing a wide chimney. Burrow deep into the cliff to exit at another treed ledge [optional belay to watch and laugh at your partner squeezing though]. Otherwise continue up to a very comfy bolted belay with great views of the valley. 5.6 / 80'.
P5; Climb the nice water worn cracks above to a dirty ledge. Protect the second then easy but dirty traverse left [keep protecting second] to a bolted rap anchor. 5.10- / 80'
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