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Routes in Moss Cliff

A Touch of Class T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Creation of the World T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Falconer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of touching Aerie T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Times T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mistah Luthah T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 310 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA, (P1), Don Mellor & Andy Zimmerman--June 1984 FA, (P2-3), Don Mellor, Patrick Munn--May 1985
Page Views: 618 total, 22/month
Shared By: Lucas on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Falconer is a quality 3 pitch route that climbs the left side of Moss Cliff. The route is easily identifiable from the parking area. Just look for the 150' hand/finger crack that splits the buttress....this is the 2nd pitch. Straight up from there, you'll see the roof that caps pitch 3.
The pro is good throughout the route....though expect some exciting climbing on thin gear, mungy holds, and lichen covered cracks. A little more traffic will go a long way on this thing.

P1--5.11a Up and at 'em. 10' of easy face climbing leads to a stance below the crux of the route. Nest a few rp's and small cams together and fire through the spooky crux. Keep climbing up and through a sustained 5.10 inside corner. Gear belay on a large ledge. 70'

P2--5.10 The money pitch. Climb straight up from the left side of the ledge to gain a beautiful crack. Follow the crack up through several shallow right-facing corners to a final tight hands crux through a bulge. Belay at a large tree. Full value at the grade. 140'

Move the belay up and left through the trees....prob 50' or so. Belay under the obvious roof with 2 finger cracks.

P3--5.10d Climb straight up the cracks, (crux), and begin a rising rightwards traverse towards the roof. Surmount the roof, (5.10), and follow the cracks up to the summit. Belay up and left on a tree with some webbing & slings.

Location

Starts approximately 100' left of A Touch of Class. Begin on a ledge 15' up, (approached from the left), below a small left facing flake that becomes a left facing corner mid-pitch. There is a small cedar tree 25' up in the corner system.

Descent: From the tree on top of pitch 3, make a double rope rappel to the tree on top of pitch 2. Another double rope rappel will get you to the ground.

Protection

Double rack of cams to 3". RP's and small cams for P1. 2 ropes are necessary to rappel.

Photos

This is yet another great route at Moss Cliff. It needs a little cleaning, or just more traffic. Three solid crack pitches. Be prepared to scramble through a forest ledge between P2 & P3. The crux on P1 and P3 are short and come very early. The roof and the upper corner on P3 is dirty, watch your eyes! Sep 27, 2015