Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 310 ft (94 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA, (P1), Don Mellor & Andy Zimmerman--June 1984 FA, (P2-3), Don Mellor, Patrick Munn--May 1985|
|Page Views:||1,282 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||LucasSpiegel on Aug 17, 2015|
The pro is good throughout the route....though expect some exciting climbing on thin gear, mungy holds, and lichen covered cracks. A little more traffic will go a long way on this thing.
P1--5.11a Up and at 'em. 10' of easy face climbing leads to a stance below the crux of the route. Nest a few rp's and small cams together and fire through the spooky crux. Keep climbing up and through a sustained 5.10 inside corner. Gear belay on a large ledge. 70'
P2--5.10 The money pitch. Climb straight up from the left side of the ledge to gain a beautiful crack. Follow the crack up through several shallow right-facing corners to a final tight hands crux through a bulge. Belay at a large tree. Full value at the grade. 140'
Move the belay up and left through the trees....prob 50' or so. Belay under the obvious roof with 2 finger cracks.
P3--5.10d Climb straight up the cracks, (crux), and begin a rising rightwards traverse towards the roof. Surmount the roof, (5.10), and follow the cracks up to the summit. Belay up and left on a tree with some webbing & slings.
Descent: From the tree on top of pitch 3, make a double rope rappel to the tree on top of pitch 2. Another double rope rappel will get you to the ground.