Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Achean Pronouncement
|Dangling Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Dark Obsession T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|East Face/Achean Pronouncement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Electric Fountain Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lingum Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Northeast Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Third Eye T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Yoni T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||P. Zoller, M Schlauch, 1989|
|Page Views:||635 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA very cool arete, excellent friction, and a nice corner to grab at. A slightly lichenous bottom makes the climb less than perfect, but it is still quite good.
The climb is technical, but not terribly hard, so the given grade of 11c might be a little overstated.
Climb up to a high first bolt (not too hard), and then cast off up and right on positive holds towards the harder climbing on the arete, with great friction. Go for a big jug on a ledge and finish on more delicate but less difficult climbing. The anchor up top is presently solid (just refurbished) but needs a better long term solution.