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Routes in Achean Pronouncement

Dangling Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Obsession T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
East Face/Achean Pronouncement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Fountain Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingum Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Northeast Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Third Eye T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Yoni T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: P. Zoller, M Schlauch, 1989
Page Views: 635 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A very cool arete, excellent friction, and a nice corner to grab at. A slightly lichenous bottom makes the climb less than perfect, but it is still quite good.
The climb is technical, but not terribly hard, so the given grade of 11c might be a little overstated.
Climb up to a high first bolt (not too hard), and then cast off up and right on positive holds towards the harder climbing on the arete, with great friction. Go for a big jug on a ledge and finish on more delicate but less difficult climbing. The anchor up top is presently solid (just refurbished) but needs a better long term solution.

Location

This route climbs the left side of the N.E. Arete of the Lingum, one of the best looking formations in Skunk Canyon. Beautiful orange and yellow stripes paint the wall. Pass the Argonaut on the Skunk Canyon trail, then cross over to the ledges and scramble up to the base. A great belay seat is just below the bolted line.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Rap to the West at first, then come around the corner lower, if desired.

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
This route has been re-bolted.
Sep 21, 2016