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Routes in Achean Pronouncement

Dangling Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Obsession T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
East Face/Achean Pronouncement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Fountain Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingum Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Northeast Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Third Eye T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Yoni T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown, probably solo
Page Views: 370 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Fountain Crack and although cleaner and more solid, it is only about 1/2 the length, and thus, not as good. It's also wider for nearly all of its length. Rossiter's book suggests to "jam" it, but other than a chicken wing, arm bar, or heel-toe, one is unlikely to jam this thing at all. The face holds on the right and left provide ample opportunity to avoid practicing O.W. technique at all. I wondered while climbing this if the conspicuous pocket on the left wall was in part a namesake of the route.
Such a short climb in a canyon full of giants is hard-pressed to get a rating better than "good" no matter its quality. Nevertheless, this pitch has some good rock and good moves.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route is the wide, low-angle crack between the Lingum's right side and the main wall of the Achean Pronouncement. Approach as for the climb "Electric Fountain Crack"-- a pain in the butt to get to, mostly walking around on loose ground and pine needles on ledges.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A #5 Camalot will go in about 1/5 way up. A #6 might go lower or higher. A #4 Camalot protects the second at the very top-- a directional prior to a traverse to the rap anchors.

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