Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Bill Briggs and Kristina Solheim, 1970
Page Views: 1,321 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Bell on Oct 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is quite good for the top 40 feet but the lower part is grubby and unpleasant. This route lies on the west side of this rock, and climbs the crack at the left edge of a detached pinnacle, the Lingum. We approached the climb from below by bushwhacking past the Achean Pronouncement and soloing up a loose steep section (3rd class) to the base of the crack (not recommended).

However, a better way to do this climb is in the middle of the East Face route. At about the end of the 4th pitch of that route, you can look down this crack. Rappel ~80' from an anchor in the notch north of the crack, or set up a toprope anchor at the top of the crack and rappel off that.

The climb itself is only about 80 feet long. The crack starts out rotten and vegetated, this section nearly earns this climb a bomb rating. Trustworthy pro is difficult to find here. Eventually, though, you are climbing a nice clean 4" crack. The upper section of this crack seems made for #4 Camalots and it you want good pro I'd take two of them (a #3.5 doesn't fit most places). I only had one #4 but felt pretty safe walking it up the crack. The crack is low angle and featured enough that no serious offwidthing is necessary, and you can climb it entirely by liebacking and using face holds.

The climb ends on the knife-edge summit ridge at a fixed piton. To get off from here continue up the ridge and around the east side of the summit block. You can bag the summit from here by climbing the final pitch of the East Face route (on the South side of the summit block).

Protection

Light rack plus Camalots #1-#4. It would be nice to have two #4 Camalots.

Photos