Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Achean Pronouncement

Dangling Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Obsession T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
East Face/Achean Pronouncement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Fountain Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingum Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Northeast Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Third Eye T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Yoni T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: R. Rossiter, Solo, (1980s?)
Page Views: 216 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


A cool boulder problem to another big Flatiron slab and ridge.

Climb up under the bulging flakes and set high feet- Pull up on underclings and set a solid piece (one piece) and then get fingers above that in the remaining part of the hold. Pull up and over into horizontals and up onto the slab on solid rock.
There was some old webbing hanging from a rotten flake- it was decayed and had lichen growing on it- it was removed. Continue as you please (many possibilities) to reach the ridge. Up and right you can reach a deep channel and crack (5.2?) that will intercept the East Face route at the intersection of the summit ridge, 210' total. Up and left is a direct shot at the ridge, but is not a distinct describable line. I can not say what difficulty might be encountered, but it seems reasonable if you are willing to wander.
If you went Right, finish on the ridge as for the East Face. If you went left, figure out a belay somewhere and work it out. Terrible place for simul-climbing though....


Perhaps 200' up from the start of the standard east face route, there is a large bulge created by some huge overhanging flakes. This dark rock is pierced in one location by a small odd crack that offers 1 solid placement to protect the crux.


The crux is protected with a 0.5-0.75" TCU, Alien, etc.... I used a green Alien. The rest is standard light rack and is a little runout.


- No Photos -


More About Dark Obsession

Printer-Friendly Guide