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Routes in Achean Pronouncement

Dangling Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Obsession T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
East Face/Achean Pronouncement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Fountain Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingum Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Northeast Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Third Eye T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Yoni T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: R. Rossiter, Solo, (1980s?)
Page Views: 71 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Some good climbing here. The climbing is much more than 230', but that is the amount of diversion from the standard East Face that one will encounter. One can break this into 2 pitches or do it in one on a 70M rope.

From the twin trees 50' up the rock as for the route East Face, work out and right diagonally to the arete. Follow that up slabs cracks and corners, passing some looser flakes on the way up. There is less gear here in spots and some medium-runouts are unavoidable. Join the East Face route at a ledge on the top ridge with some good knuckle-sized cams, tricams, or tricky stoppers for a bomber belay.

Location

From the first 'on-rock' belay of the Standard East Face, at the 2 trees, this route follows the right hand side of the East Face, on the arete, to the ledge up top, 230' away. This can barely be done with a 70M rope, but it would be easy to simul-climb a few feet....

Protection

A standard rack from fingers to fist and plenty of long runners.

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