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Routes in The Other Side

Chicken on the Wing at the Gates of Evening, Oh! How Glorious is Thy Flight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funky Chicken S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Other Side, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pollo Loco S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pollo Seca S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spring Chicken S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wishbone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Scott Beguin
Page Views: 461 total, 4/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Sep 20, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start on some bad rock to a committing first clip then up onto good rock and some thin and balancy dihedral moves past two more bolts, then gain the slight overhang to a no hands rest on a shelf and then step left and continue up the arete and some stellar rock to the humongous pocket at the top for the anchor clip.

Location

This route is the second bolted route to the left of Left Wing, (maybe 75 yards).

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt springer anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

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Gojira
 
Gojira  
 
The mud band at the bottom of this climb is like decaying adobe and chunks of the mud band shear off trying to get going. I would recommend at a minimum stick clipping bolt 1 and going from there. I ended up pulling off the rope to get to hands on the obvious lower blocks on top of the mud band and went from there. A solid route with a cool twist to it. Mar 6, 2017
Matt Price
  5.10b
Matt Price  
  5.10b
Except for the bad "rock" you have to get past to start this climb, its one of the best climbs I've done at Coxcomb so far (haven't been to poutrygeist). A variety of cool moves with route options. Sep 20, 2007