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The Other Side

5.10b, Sport, 65 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Scott Beguin
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Cockscomb Crag > Other Side

Description

Start on some bad rock to a committing first clip then up onto good rock and some thin and balancy dihedral moves past two more bolts, then gain the slight overhang to a no hands rest on a shelf and then step left and continue up the arete and some stellar rock to the humongous pocket at the top for the anchor clip.

Location

This route is the second bolted route to the left of Left Wing, (maybe 75 yards).

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt springer anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Price
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Except for the bad "rock" you have to get past to start this climb, its one of the best climbs I've done at Coxcomb so far (haven't been to poutrygeist). A variety of cool moves with route options. Sep 20, 2007
Gojira
 
[Hide Comment] The mud band at the bottom of this climb is like decaying adobe and chunks of the mud band shear off trying to get going. I would recommend at a minimum stick clipping bolt 1 and going from there. I ended up pulling off the rope to get to hands on the obvious lower blocks on top of the mud band and went from there. A solid route with a cool twist to it. Mar 6, 2017