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Routes in Watchtower Proper

Bats in the Belfry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Faultline Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lipstick on a Pig T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Les Ellsion and Ken Speirs, 1983
Page Views: 119 total, 1/month
Shared By: Arie on Sep 16, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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This climb is a great way to beat the crowds chumming around Extreme Unction and is an excellent exit to a day in Ferguson. Climb any of the lower tier routes on the lower watchtower (Extreme Unction to Beef Jerky) or scramble up from the west via the Watchtower toprope trail. A narrow wooded ledge provides ample room to get started (basic gear belay is a good idea).

Follow a quality crack (hands to fist) off the ledge using jams and jugs to the confluence with Bucklands Var. and slug right. Avoid the standard Ferguson guano pile and head for the obvious vertical cleft. The cleft starts out steep (crux), as a variable crack with many positive holds, but ends as tormenting body squeeze (much love)- potentially requiring the removal of all extraneous gear and clothing... or it may be possible to climb the outside of the chimney.

Top out and enjoy the grey view of the SLC blight. A good mix-up to the Ferguson standards. Save some gas from your 13th lap on Unction... the steep section is a surprising pump.


Faultline is located on the 'Watchtower Proper', the tower-like peninsula of rock out-jutting above the lower Watchtower area. Begin at the obvious crack on the ledge above Garden of Eden. Walk off to the west (poor trail) is the most viable descent option.


Standard rack. At least one larger cam was useful (#4 camalot) but you could get by without. Upper and lower belays are gear- mid sizes.


Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
This is a candidate for hardest 5.9 in Ferguson. The steep section where the crack pinches is intimidating and forces you into a funky layback move. Once you dive back in the crack, expect your helmet to get stuck in the chimney as mentioned above. Pop back out on the face to the left and mantle or squeeeeeeeeeeeeze!
The #4 and doubles from #3 down to .75 would be nice if you do it in one pitch. May 13, 2013