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Routes in Watchtower Proper

Bats in the Belfry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Faultline Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lipstick on a Pig T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Bobby Rotert and Steve Carruthers, 1983
Page Views: 1,127 total, 11/month
Shared By: Alec LaLonde on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Awesome route tackling the Upper Watchtower. First climb the face to the left of Extreme Unction to a ledge, then up a hand crack with great ledges. Traverse left beneath a roof, breathe deep, and fire the roof with 70 feet of air beneath you! An interesting leftward shuffle above and awkward mantle complete the difficulties.

Location

Ominous looking prow above the Main Watchtower. Above Broken Serenity and Garden of Eden. There are anchors on the North edge of the summit. A 70m gets you down, otherwise rap to the Extreme Unction anchors.

Protection

Standard rack. The crux protects very well and there's a pin or two above it.

Photos

Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
fun and classic ferg. weird but good gear in horizontals, fun jugs, and of course mantling through bat guano. Nothing says ferg like some bat guano. After pulling the crux roof and clipping the pin, you encounter another roof that I avoided by "shuffling left" as the poster puts it which I hope was the correct method as I had to mantle into before mentioned excretment. I thought pulling that next roof blind was probably the correct way but was too scared to find out. Still not sure but if the crux was lower I'm happy avoiding a potential whipper on unnecessary off-route terrain. May 22, 2012