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Lipstick on a Pig
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.6 from 11
votes
Routes in Watchtower Proper
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Bats in the Belfry T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Faultline Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lipstick on a Pig T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 40.61337, -111.77912 |
| FA: | Dave Budge w/ Todd & Winslow Passey, 9/08 |
| Page Views: | 1,988 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Budge on Sep 15, 2008 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
An in-your-face boulder problem on the north side of The Watchtower Proper. Still gritty but should clean up after a few more ascents. Kinda reachy and powerful.
Location
On the Watchtower Proper. Shares the same start as Bats in the Belfry but continues straight up the north side of The Watchtower. There are several approach pitch options from the ground. Alternately, one can downclimb around from the top (easy 4th class).
Protection
Hand-sized cams protect the moves below the roof. Two bolts on the upper face. The first bolt can be clipped from the bomber handjam below the roof. Very hard to clip second bolt, I clipped it from above after the crux. A purple Metolius TCU can be placed in a little slot below the top. Bolt anchors on top. With a 70m rope you can rap to the ground from the top.
Some stoppers and TCUs might be handy for the belay anchor at the start of the tower pitch.
6 Comments