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Routes in Shipyard Rock

All Tuckered Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Humpbacks in Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not So Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutra-Sweet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shipyard Rock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shipyard rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spilling Waves S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surging Wave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tsunami S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tuck and Roll S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waves (Variation) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ron Yahne & Bob Archbald
Page Views: 1,875 total, 15/month
Shared By: Paul Huebner on Jul 9, 2007 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch is solid 5.10. It's crux is getting to the 3rd and 4th bolt on some tiny and very sharp little projections in the black water groove above the small rib of rock. You will have very sore fingers, but it's well worth it. The pitch eases off above the 4th bolt and it's a romp up to the anchor/chain system from there. The second pitch is 5.10d and involves some unusual moves (crux) once you gain the ledge below the large vertical crack/chimney.

Location

The route is located between the Original Waves and Shark's Breath. It's easy to see the first 3-4 bolts placed just above a small rib in a black water groove that goes up and to the left when you're facing the rock. You can rap from the fixed bolt/chain anchor system at the top of the 1st pitch (5.10) or continue on to the summit for Waves and rap from there.

Protection

There are at least 6 - 7 bolts on the 1st pitch which ends at a bolt/chain anchor system. A few more bolts are found on the 2nd pitch that leads up and through a large vertical crack/small chimney -- bolts are placed on the smooth rock to the right of the chimney. The 2nd pitch ends at the summit for Waves.

Photos

Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
I believe I led part of the first pitch years ago, as an alternate start for Waves. I remember being very unhappy about the placement of the 5th bolt; easy ground but a runout after the first four, and then when you finally reach a feature you can wrap your hands around you can't clip from it but instead must delicately balance along a ramp in order to reach the higher bolt! Jun 19, 2013
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.10d
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
  5.10d
This route is in fact named "Humpbacks in Love" aka "The Breakup Hickey".

It may be wise to take a couple of cams up to 1" and a set of stoppers as there are some clean gear placements on the second pitch.

The F.A. party rated the entire route 5.10d with the first pitch being 5.10a & the second pitch 5.10d.

Ron Yahne & Bob Archbald did the F.A. Mar 17, 2008
John Klooster
Arvada, CO
John Klooster   Arvada, CO
I think Bob called this route Humpbacks in Love. Jul 14, 2007