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Routes in Shipyard Rock

All Tuckered Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Humpbacks in Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not So Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutra-Sweet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shipyard Rock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shipyard rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spilling Waves S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surging Wave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tsunami S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tuck and Roll S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waves (Variation) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: M. Strege
Page Views: 995 total, 5/month
Shared By: Dan Dewell on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

"Tuck and Roll" is a second pitch above "All Tuckered Out." At your entrance into the South Seas climbing area, it can be seen at the sign in as a large, sweeping fin high on the sky line to the east, above an off-vertical face titled "All Tuckered Out." It is to the right of the larger gully and starts ~85 feet up, above the anchors of "All Tuckered Out."

It starts behind the anchors of "All Tuckered Out," and has fifteen to twenty feet at the start which contain the crux of the climb. The remaining portion of the route is 5.8 along the edge/arete of the fin.

This route was not bolted to be an extension of "All Tuckered Out." Attempting to link "Tuck and Roll" with "All Tuckered Out" can result in a serious injury if peeling off at the crux. But when lead from behind the anchors of "All Tuckered Out," the bolts are perfectly placed. Belay for the route is very comfortable behind the anchors for "All Tuckered Out." View of climber finishing "Tuck and Roll" along the edge of the fin from the belayer's position is phenomenal.

Protection includes five or six draws. Keep the bolts at your center or to the left. Rappel down from the bomber Metolius anchors with a 60m rope, nearly all the way to the base of "All Tuckered Out" or rappel off the anchors of "Nutra Sweet" to the base of that climb with a 50m rope and do fiftth class down-climbing. Top-rope is doable.

Enjoy!

Protection

Route has 5 or 6 bolts. Belay from behind 'All Tuckered Out' anchors. Do NOT link 'All Tuckered Out' and 'Tuck and Roll' together; rope stretch makes a leader fall dangerous. 60m rope required for rappel down to base of ATO (almost, but safe,nonetheless). Otherwise, rappel off of NutraSweet anchors to base of that climb and down-climb the gully or rappel in two pitches, using ATO anchors for second rappel.

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Finally sacked up and bought a 70 meter rope and did All Tuckered Out and Tuck And Roll in one glorious, long pitch. Good fun! May 2, 2014
I would agree that this is not an example of "grid bolting", as there isn't another route next to it that I know of (but I haven't climbed up there in awhile). I think the person who put up this route saw it as a fun way to top out. The crux is low and the belayer should carefully watch the leader. Oct 11, 2005
Tuck and Roll is actually an extention or second pitch to All Tuckered Out. No grid bolting here. Just a valid new pitch. Oct 11, 2005
vernon phinney
pocatello, idaho
vernon phinney   pocatello, idaho
Do you think that if we are linking bolts of separate climbs that we might be placing routes too close to each other?? Is this not creating a gridwork of bolts on a climbing face?? Where in the Needles is this NOT a possibility and should we really do this sort of activity?? Oct 11, 2005