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Routes in Shipyard Rock

All Tuckered Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Humpbacks in Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not So Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutra-Sweet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shipyard Rock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shipyard rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spilling Waves S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surging Wave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tsunami S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tuck and Roll S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waves (Variation) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Mike Lewis & Vern Phinney 1987
Page Views: 931 total, 8/month
Shared By: Brent Kertzman on Mar 17, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

A beautiful wind-sculpted, boiler plated vertical face. Start a bit left on the obvious weakness and work up and right 25' to the first bolt. Continue up stellar rock passing more bolts on the way to the summit. There are a couple of different lines to climb past the first several bolts.

There also is a new direct start that climbs past a couple of newer bolts and is mid to upper 5.11. It might be wise to stick clip the first bolt on this variation. F.A. TNA Yahne

Location

The easiest approach is from the old road on the west side of the Shipyard. Scramble up the corridor between Hornet's Nest & Shipyard. Nutra-Sweet is located on the NW face of the Shipyard, about 60' up on the right side of the corridor. Less than five minutes from the car.

Protection

5 or 6 Bolts, Medium Stopper or Small Tri-Cam.
7 or 8 Bolts with the Direct Start, Medium Stopper or Small Tri-Cam.
Bolted anchors.

Photos

Climbed the direct start to this the other day, definitely stick clip the first! I didn't, and ended up going head over heels down the approach gulley after blowing a move down low. That being said, when I finally did stop whining and got up there, what an awesome route!! I protected the top with a 0 tcu, although a brass nut would probably have worked just as well. If you're in the area, and climb the grade, I wouldn't miss this line Jul 3, 2015
Travis Rypkema
  5.11b
Travis Rypkema  
  5.11b
A nu start.... to the classic nutra-sweet. Jun 10, 2013
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.11
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.11
The direct start is really fun and kind of bouldery, definitely nice to have a stick clip for the first bolt. Don't shy away from this route if you have nothing more than a set of draws, can be done with out gear. May 21, 2013