The first pitch is solid 5.10. It's crux is getting to the 3rd and 4th bolt on some tiny and very sharp little projections in the black water groove above the small rib of rock. You will have very sore fingers, but it's well worth it. The pitch eases off above the 4th bolt and it's a romp up to the anchor/chain system from there. The second pitch is 5.10d and involves some unusual moves (crux) once you gain the ledge below the large vertical crack/chimney.
The route is located left of the Original Waves and between Waves and Shark's Breath. It's easy to see the first 3-4 bolts placed just above a small rib in a black water groove that goes up and to the left when you're facing the rock. You can rap from the fixed bolt/chain anchor system at the top of the 1st pitch (5.10) or continue on to the summit for Waves and rap from there.
There are at least 6 - 7 bolts on the 1st pitch which ends at a bolt/chain anchor system. A few more bolts are found on the 2nd pitch that leads up and through a large vertical crack/small chimney -- bolts are placed on the smooth rock to the right of the chimney. The 2nd pitch ends at the summit for Waves.
Arvada, CO
Black Hills, SD
It may be wise to take a couple of cams up to 1" and a set of stoppers as there are some clean gear placements on the second pitch.
The F.A. party rated the entire route 5.10d with the first pitch being 5.10a & the second pitch 5.10d.
Ron Yahne & Bob Archbald did the F.A. Mar 17, 2008
Minneapolis, MN
Glens Falls, NY
To the pair of climbers from Minnesota whom we sandbagged big-time by pointing them to this climb when we still thought it was Waves: really really REALLY sorry. We have your bail biner (though at that point the worst was over...good job making it through all the cruxy stuff!) DM me and I will gladly mail your biner to you.
And per Benjamin's comment on July 19: the wasp nest is still there, still vigorously buzzing! Aug 15, 2022
Idyllwild, CA