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Humpbacks in Love

5.10b, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 46 votes
FA: Ron Yahne , Bob Archbald and Duane Martenson 2001
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > S Seas > Shipyard Rock
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Description

The first pitch is solid 5.10. It's crux is getting to the 3rd and 4th bolt on some tiny and very sharp little projections in the black water groove above the small rib of rock. You will have very sore fingers, but it's well worth it. The pitch eases off above the 4th bolt and it's a romp up to the anchor/chain system from there. The second pitch is 5.10d and involves some unusual moves (crux) once you gain the ledge below the large vertical crack/chimney.

Location

The route is located left of the Original Waves and between Waves and Shark's Breath. It's easy to see the first 3-4 bolts placed just above a small rib in a black water groove that goes up and to the left when you're facing the rock. You can rap from the fixed bolt/chain anchor system at the top of the 1st pitch (5.10) or continue on to the summit for Waves and rap from there.

Protection

There are at least 6 - 7 bolts on the 1st pitch which ends at a bolt/chain anchor system. A few more bolts are found on the 2nd pitch that leads up and through a large vertical crack/small chimney -- bolts are placed on the smooth rock to the right of the chimney. The 2nd pitch ends at the summit for Waves.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Compilation of Ryan working the first pitch of Humpbacks in Love
[Hide Photo] Compilation of Ryan working the first pitch of Humpbacks in Love
Fox heading up 2nd pitch of Humpbacks in Love
[Hide Photo] Fox heading up 2nd pitch of Humpbacks in Love
Good route!
[Hide Photo] Good route!
Bob's Bolts and Anchors
[Hide Photo] Bob's Bolts and Anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Klooster
Arvada, CO
[Hide Comment] I think Bob called this route Humpbacks in Love. Jul 14, 2007
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This route is in fact named "Humpbacks in Love" aka "The Breakup Hickey".

It may be wise to take a couple of cams up to 1" and a set of stoppers as there are some clean gear placements on the second pitch.

The F.A. party rated the entire route 5.10d with the first pitch being 5.10a & the second pitch 5.10d.

Ron Yahne & Bob Archbald did the F.A. Mar 17, 2008
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
[Hide Comment] I believe I led part of the first pitch years ago, as an alternate start for Waves. I remember being very unhappy about the placement of the 5th bolt; easy ground but a runout after the first four, and then when you finally reach a feature you can wrap your hands around you can't clip from it but instead must delicately balance along a ramp in order to reach the higher bolt! Jun 19, 2013
Derin Tanyol
Glens Falls, NY
[Hide Comment] We got on this excellent route, thinking it was Waves. The words of a poster on the Waves entry ("great route for beginners, the holds are massive ...") seemed terribly wrong right away. But we were glad for the error, as this is a beautiful route! A bit of a run to the fourth or fifth bolt; it can be protected with a medium-sized cam and a long runner off to the left if Needles run-outs aren't your favorite....

To the pair of climbers from Minnesota whom we sandbagged big-time by pointing them to this climb when we still thought it was Waves: really really REALLY sorry. We have your bail biner (though at that point the worst was over...good job making it through all the cruxy stuff!) DM me and I will gladly mail your biner to you.

And per Benjamin's comment on July 19: the wasp nest is still there, still vigorously buzzing! Aug 15, 2022
Sean Sullivan
Idyllwild, CA
[Hide Comment] Climb the second pitch! It's so good, not much harder than the first, and well-protected. I clipped 7 bolts and used a .4 between bolts 1 and 2 (the crux). Aug 1, 2025