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Routes in Shipyard Rock

All Tuckered Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Humpbacks in Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not So Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutra-Sweet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shipyard Rock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shipyard rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spilling Waves S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surging Wave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tsunami S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tuck and Roll S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waves (Variation) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 585 total, 10/month
Shared By: Wilson On The Drums on Apr 27, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route is a variation of shipyard rock. Shipyard Rock proper that is featured in the guidebooks starts in the gulley between sharks fin and humpbacks in love. This variation is on the same side as all tuckered out/tuck and roll. It doesn't go all the way to the same summit as does shipyard or waves but it would be possible to head up there once on the "false" summit. The route is fun but a little run out on suspect holds near the top hence the pg-13 rating.

Location

Locate all tuckered out. Now head up the 5th class gully as if going to nutra sweet. head right in a chimney and take this until you are at the start of tuck and roll. (it is possible to set up a top rope to all tuckered out here). now head up and just right of tuck and roll following a well defined water groove, similar to the first 40 ft of solitaire. you can tie off a knob and head up and left into the crack to place some gear with long runners and then come back down a bit to traverse right over into the water groove. take this to the summit. belay using the bomber metolious anchors of tuck and roll. a 70 meter will get you all the way back down off of those anchors.

Protection

The first part of the climb can be soloed and go's at 5.0, the second part is 5.6 and takes .75-3 and a long sling to tie off a nice knob.

Photos

We did that line back in the 70's. Didn't give it a name. Arete to the right is higher quality but lacks pro. Feel free to put some on it if you wish. May 18, 2013
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
 
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
 
If any one knows the name of the route and the FA info please chime in. I didn't see it in either rushmore guidebook (old or new) but i am certain that this must have been climbed in the past. Apr 27, 2013