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Routes in Shipyard Rock

All Tuckered Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Humpbacks in Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not So Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutra-Sweet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shipyard Rock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shipyard rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spilling Waves S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surging Wave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tsunami S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tuck and Roll S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waves (Variation) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 2,184 total, 12/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Oct 21, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route is on a small detached formation on the side of Shipyard Rock facing the road. This rock is to the left of the formation Sharkstooth, the small tooth shape formation near the sign in. Look for a route with 6 bolts and a prominent undercling with some yellow rock. This route gets its name because if you spend too much time figuring out the move near the undercling, your arms will get spent.

Protection

6 bolts

Photos

Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.10+
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.10+
What a blast of a climb! Also a nice change of pace from the technical side of Rushmore climbing. May 22, 2016
BBQ
  5.10b
BBQ  
  5.10b
Loved it! Will definitely be putting this route into my spring training rotation from here on out. Sick moves, semi-rad exposure, unusual rock texture, a short nonshitty approach, and one hundred plus feet of clipping bolts make this one a must do. May 2, 2014
AP
  5.10+
AP  
  5.10+
This can be a two pitch climb. P1 is 5.10a/b and the second pitch is 5.10+. The entire route is 110' and requires 2 ropes to rap or a 70m that will get you down. After first pitch, there is a nice ledge to comfortably belay from. Mar 23, 2014
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
 
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
 
great fun. i'm not sure how everyone goes at this line but i managed to scramble up the back and set up a top rope. when climbing i stayed in the crack until the 4th bolt and then traversed into the line proper. my partner traversed in at the 3rd bolt. either way this route was fun, powerful, and full of good movements. there is another way to the summit besides tuck and roll too. when you are at the anchors of all tuckered out and looking at the first bolt of tuck and roll, look for a water groove just to the right. there is a large knob to sling and you can get a piece or two in the crack (using loong runners) and then follow the groove to the top. i'd give it 5.6/5.7 pg-13. you can use the anchors (metolious) of tuck and roll to belay up a second and rappell off of. this sets you up to top rope jellyfish and condoms (5.9) too. Apr 26, 2013
Tater Tot
Custer, SD
Tater Tot   Custer, SD
What is the stellar fun route that continues up as sort of a second pitch, straight up from the anchors of All Tuckered Out? Worth climbing! Really fun! Mar 21, 2010
Patryk
DC
Patryk   DC
Vern, although my response is 4 years late, thanks for the positive feedback. This route was put up by Mike Dahlberg, Tom (Tucker) Hanson, John Horsnell, and me, back when you could still stay at Breezy Point in relative solitude.

And, in response to Brent, we did, indeed avoid the crack on the first ascent, thinking the route was easy 5.11. Feb 6, 2009
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.10b
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
  5.10b
The first ascentionists climbed direct up the face just left of the bolts and avoided the crack to the right that everyone now climbs. The rating is is about 5.11b pulling direct up the face.

The route is located just off the old road in the corridor between Hornet's Nest & Shipyard. Mar 17, 2008
vernon phinney
pocatello, idaho
 
vernon phinney   pocatello, idaho
 
this has to be one of the greatest routes put in by inexperienced (at that time) route setters! I was asked to climb this route after completion by the initial route setters and found this route to be very high quality for the rating and location. I felt the protection was very well thought out and adequate. There are several high-quality cruxes throughout the route making this route unique. My compliments to the initial route setters of this route for NOT putting in a route within twenty feet of another and for finding a very unique face providing a high quality climb. Vernon Phinney (dakotagriz). Oct 11, 2005
A little help please. What is the route immediately to the right of All Tuckered Out? It has six, I think, bolts and follows a flaired crack. RL appx 70 ft. 5.9, 5.10- I think.Whatever the name, it is a 3-star climb in my book. Jul 24, 2005
CURT LOVE
  5.10b
CURT LOVE  
  5.10b
"All tuckered out"You can also climb the crack to the right of the bolt line.It takes good gear and is good fun. The crack goes at 5.10 and meets up with the bolt line up high. You need some small gear and a spread up to oh about 2 inches. Mar 10, 2004