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Routes in Shipyard Rock

All Tuckered Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Humpbacks in Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not So Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nutra-Sweet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shipyard Rock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Shipyard rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spilling Waves S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surging Wave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tsunami S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tuck and Roll S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Waves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waves (Variation) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 85 ft, Grade V
FA: Vernon Phinney, Mike Lewis, 1987 ground up
Page Views: 301 total, 10/month
Shared By: Mark Orsag on Jul 10, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A bit of an awkward adventure climb, and it should be approached in that spirit. Steep climbing up a monster flake begins this interesting,varied, and physical route. There is a middle transition section with some funky body positions (I remember ending up riding a big cylinder shaped ledge in a manner reminiscent of the movie Dr Strangelove). The route ended with a weird slightly overhanging face section (crux) where your body was half in and half and out of a chimney. A big bonus for the effort involved is a gorgeous summit with a great view of the surrounding South Seas formations. Not a ton of non-wide gear and placing and cleaning what was there was somewhat challenging. The Burr and Busse guide rates this route 5.6. That seems, at least by current notions, severely sandbagged. Both the very strong crack climber that I followed up this and myself ( a gym and outdoor sport climber who doesn't like cracks all that much), thought a grade in the 5.8 range was appropriate. We'll see what other people think.

Location

Up the 4th class gully from the W.This goes up over (from behind it) Nutra Sweet (5.11). Nutra Sweet is effectively the rap line for Not So Sweet. Single rope rap to the ground.

Protection

Gear, 0.75 to #5, nuts (the recent guide book says only to #3 but your "adventure factor" will be greater w/o some big gear in the #4-#5 range)

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Jeff Moon
Rapid City, SD
 
Jeff Moon   Rapid City, SD
 
Its a tad run-out if you don't have anything bigger than a #3. I had a few moments of thinking "this is 5.6?" I'd say 5.8 is appropriate. Nov 12, 2015
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
Dunno. i didn't have any big gear, which is what i needed to feel safe. i backed down and never finished the route. Jul 11, 2015
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
 
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
 
WOD, curious as to what you would rate it? Jul 10, 2015
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
Not 5.6. I backed down on this climb for not having any big gear. It was really awkward and seemed really committing without some big cams. Jul 10, 2015