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Routes in Mount Rainier

Central Mowich Face AI3-4 Steep Snow
Curtis Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2
Emmons Glacier Mod. Snow
Fuhrer Finger
Fuhrer Thumb
Gibraltar Ledges AI1-2
Ingraham Glacier Direct
Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route T Mod. Snow
Kautz Glacier WI2-3
Liberty Ridge AI2-3 Steep Snow
North Mowich Headwall WI3
Ptarmigan Ridge
Skookum Falls WI4+
Sunset Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI1-2
Upper Castle Toprope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willis Wall M5+ X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Snow, Alpine, 10700 ft
FA: Rainier: Hazard Stevens and Philemon Van Trump, 1870 Emmons Glacier route: ??
Page Views: 9,322 total, 73/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 23, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Start from the White River ranger station (360)569-6030 at 4,300ft.

Follow the White River 3.1 miles to tree line and possible camping at Glacier Basin around 6000ft.

Continue up the Interglacier (crevasses) to Camp Curtis at 8,500 ft. and more possible camping. Descend slightly at the top of the ridge down onto the Emmons Glacier and continue up a short distance to the standard high camp at Camp Schurman and Steamboat Prow at 9,450 ft.

From Schurman head up and left to a 1,500 ft. snowy ramp called the Corridor.

Above the Corridor the climbing steepens and trends right to the bergschrund which may be tricky to cross depending on conditions.

Above the bergschrund one more steep section awaits before the summit.

Descend the route.

Location

NE side of Rainier.

Protection

Glacier gear with snow pro.
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
We climbed this route July 25-27, 2016 in clear and quite warm weather. We found it was hard to get information about water sources on the mountain. Maybe most people just melt snow (a fine option but requires a lot of fuel). We were able to dam up a trickle of melt snow near Camp Curtis, where we chose to camp. See beta photo. It was possible to filter water out of the small pool. Not sure how early in the season this would be viable. Jul 31, 2016
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  Easy Snow
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  Easy Snow
Left trailhead at 6pm, summited a little after daybreak. Done this way, there is excellent firm snow the whole way. Aug 5, 2013
Sarah Kate
Seattle, WA
 
Sarah Kate   Seattle, WA
 
Fewer people, totally stunning, moderate route up the back of the White Giant. Do it early in the season to avoid having to do massive hauls around the bergschrund. May 5, 2009
Bingman
Fort Collins, CO
 
Bingman   Fort Collins, CO
 
FA: Reverend J. Warner Fobes, George James, and Richard O., 1884.

For more FA info, and a lot more beta on the route, see this. Nov 21, 2008
A flood during the winter of 2007 washed out much of the trail between the White River ranger station and Glacier Basin. While the trial is being rebuilt there is yellow flag tape marking the route for about a mile. Expect loose rock in washed out gullies and downed trees to delay travel a bit. Jun 24, 2007