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Routes in Mount Rainier

Central Mowich Face AI3-4 Steep Snow
Curtis Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2
Emmons Glacier Mod. Snow
Fuhrer Finger
Fuhrer Thumb
Gibraltar Ledges AI1-2
Ingraham Glacier Direct
Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route T Mod. Snow
Kautz Glacier WI2-3
Liberty Ridge AI2-3 Steep Snow
North Mowich Headwall WI3
Ptarmigan Ridge
Skookum Falls WI4+
Sunset Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI1-2
Upper Castle Toprope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willis Wall M5+ X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 9000 ft, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 682 total, 66/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 5, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Disclaimer: this is based on a 1979 ascent so conditions may be different.

This excellent route climbs the ridge above the Sunset Amphitheater. Spectacular views and solitude await.

From the west side road, climb the ridge past Tokaloo Rock. We went up the ridge above and then traversed left in a flat area across the Puyallup and S. Mowich glaciers to a good bivi below the ridge at around 8500'

The route is obvious from here - climb steep snow up the face of the ridge until you reach the ridge proper. Our main obstacle was a short "rock" section featuring the loosest rock I've ever had to deal with. Other than a long sling around a big boulder sticking out of the ridge there wasn't anything you could really call pro. We belayed without an anchor astride the ridge - every time you shifted weight you would sink deeper into the ridge.

Once you regain snow, the angle eases and you're on mellow ground to the top of Liberty Cap. There were spectacular nieve penitente on this last part which made progress slow.

If conditions have exposed more rock, prepare for some serious looseness. It was mostly volcanic mud with cobbles.

Location

The west side of Rainier

Protection

Some slings and maybe a few cams?

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