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Sunset Ridge
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British AI1-2 Steep Snow
Avg: 4 from 2
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 9000 ft (2727 m), Grade IV |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 6,460 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Feb 5, 2017 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
Disclaimer: this is based on a 1979 ascent so conditions may be different.
This excellent route climbs the ridge above the Sunset Amphitheater. Spectacular views and solitude await.
From the west side road, climb the ridge past Tokaloo Rock. We went up the ridge above and then traversed left in a flat area across the Puyallup and S. Mowich glaciers to a good bivi below the ridge at around 8500'
The route is obvious from here - climb steep snow up the face of the ridge until you reach the ridge proper. Our main obstacle was a short "rock" section featuring the loosest rock I've ever had to deal with. Other than a long sling around a big boulder sticking out of the ridge there wasn't anything you could really call pro. We belayed without an anchor astride the ridge - every time you shifted weight you would sink deeper into the ridge.
Once you regain snow, the angle eases and you're on mellow ground to the top of Liberty Cap. There were spectacular nieve penitente on this last part which made progress slow.
If conditions have exposed more rock, prepare for some serious looseness. It was mostly volcanic mud with cobbles.
This excellent route climbs the ridge above the Sunset Amphitheater. Spectacular views and solitude await.
From the west side road, climb the ridge past Tokaloo Rock. We went up the ridge above and then traversed left in a flat area across the Puyallup and S. Mowich glaciers to a good bivi below the ridge at around 8500'
The route is obvious from here - climb steep snow up the face of the ridge until you reach the ridge proper. Our main obstacle was a short "rock" section featuring the loosest rock I've ever had to deal with. Other than a long sling around a big boulder sticking out of the ridge there wasn't anything you could really call pro. We belayed without an anchor astride the ridge - every time you shifted weight you would sink deeper into the ridge.
Once you regain snow, the angle eases and you're on mellow ground to the top of Liberty Cap. There were spectacular nieve penitente on this last part which made progress slow.
If conditions have exposed more rock, prepare for some serious looseness. It was mostly volcanic mud with cobbles.
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