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Routes in Mount Rainier

Central Mowich Face AI3-4 Steep Snow
Curtis Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2
Emmons Glacier Mod. Snow
Fuhrer Finger
Fuhrer Thumb
Gibraltar Ledges AI1-2
Ingraham Glacier Direct
Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route T Mod. Snow
Kautz Glacier WI2-3
Liberty Ridge AI2-3 Steep Snow
North Mowich Headwall WI3
Ptarmigan Ridge
Skookum Falls WI4+
Sunset Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI1-2
Upper Castle Toprope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willis Wall M5+ X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 9200 ft, Grade IV
FA: Dee Molenaar, Gene Prater, Jim Wickwire, and Dick Pargeter
Page Views: 4,160 total, 44/month
Shared By: Jeremy Park on Mar 20, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

There are two variations. The first and original one is a Grade III and cuts left at 12500 to hit an hour glass of snow,ice, and rock. This gains a snow ledge which allows you to get around the rock and gain access to a snow ramp, 40-50 degree, and the top. The second and IMO more fun variation, Grade IV, cuts right instead to hit a couple of ice steps, AI 2-3, and 4-6 pitch of steep snow, 50-60, until you top out on the liberty cap glacier.

Location

It is located on the northwest face of Rainier above Mowich lake. Approach via the Wonderland trail at Mowich lake to Spray Park. Before the trail starts descending towards the Carbon River take a climbers trail going up the lower part of Ptarmigan Ridge. At 8300 leave the ridge and descend 1000ft to the North Mowich Glacier.
To descend carry over via the Emmons or DC route

Protection

A couple of screws for the ice steeps and 2-4 pickets.

Photos

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Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
To follow up on Chris's comment above, one can write whatever useful information they have as a comment, and I can add it to the main description. Apr 22, 2014
Considering this is a 3 / 4 star route, the description is quite worthless. Would anyone who has climbed the route care to update the description to reflect something more insightful? Apr 21, 2014