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Routes in Mount Rainier
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Central Mowich Face AI3-4 Steep Snow |
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Curtis Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2 Steep Snow |
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East Success Couloir Steep Snow |
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Emmons Glacier Mod. Snow |
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Fuhrer Finger Mod. Snow |
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Fuhrer Thumb Mod. Snow |
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Gibraltar Ledges AI1-2 Mod. Snow |
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Ingraham Glacier Direct Mod. Snow |
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Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route T Mod. Snow |
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Kautz Glacier WI2-3 |
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Liberty Ridge AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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North Mowich Headwall WI3 Mod. Snow |
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Ptarmigan Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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Sunset Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI1-2 Steep Snow |
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Tahoma Glacier Mod. Snow |
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Upper Castle Toprope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Willis Wall M5+ X |
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Wilson Headwall WI2 Mod. Snow |
| Type: | Snow, Alpine, 11400 ft (3455 m), Grade III |
| GPS: | 46.8529, -121.76047 |
| FA: | George Senner and Dick Walstrom - July 17, 1960 |
| Page Views: | 833 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on Jun 6, 2021 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
After approaching from Van Trump Meadows, the Westside Road, or Paradise, ascend the Easternmost Success Couloir on 45+ degree snow. Coming from Van Trump Meadows or Paradise, it may be easiest to cross the lower Kautz Glacier and start by climbing the Kautz Cleaver before traversing into the couloir.
The route is a long, consistent snow ramp heading relatively straight up. Depending on snow coverage, rock bands may present at 12,600 and 13,300 feet. At about 13,000 feet, the route heads out on an exposed traverse over cliffs before cutting back left and then up to Point Success.
With minimal crevassing and technical difficulty (beyond the consistent steepness) and Southern exposure, this can be a better spring ski route than a climbing route.
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