Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mount Rainier

Central Mowich Face AI3-4 Steep Snow
Curtis Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2
Emmons Glacier Mod. Snow
Fuhrer Finger
Fuhrer Thumb
Gibraltar Ledges AI1-2
Ingraham Glacier Direct
Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route T Mod. Snow
Kautz Glacier WI2-3
Liberty Ridge AI2-3 Steep Snow
North Mowich Headwall WI3
Ptarmigan Ridge
Skookum Falls WI4+
Sunset Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI1-2
Upper Castle Toprope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willis Wall M5+ X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Alpine, 2300 ft, Grade II
FA: Jim Wickwire, Charlie Raymond and Tom Stewart May 27, 1972
Page Views: 832 total, 12/month
Shared By: Don Morris on Jun 24, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Fuhrer Thumb

If you have already done Fuhrer Finger, Furher Thumb is a decent alternative to add to your tick list. Use the standard approach and high camp for Kautz Glacier and Fuhrer Finger. High camp is located on the west side of Wilson Glacier below the Turtle Snowfield. Starting at 9,200 feet rock outcroppings up to 9,400 feet provide a number of suitable camp sites.

From high camp traverse north-northeast across the Wilson Glacier toward Fuhrer Finger. Crevasse navigation will be necessary. Fuhrer Thumb will be the snow couloir immediately west of Fuhrer Finger. Beware that crevasses cut across the entrance to the Fuhrer Thumb couloir.

Climb directly up the couloir (up to 45 degrees) At roughly 10,500 feet you will reach an ice/ rock band that will offer to go left or right. Your decision will be based on snow/ice conditions. I decided on left.

Continue up the couloir until you connect with the Fuhrer Finger at 11,500 feet. A right traverse may be necessary earlier depending on route finding and conditions.

Alpine start recommended (1:00 or 2:00 AM). Rockfall began to occur at twilight.

Overall climb was fun with hard snow and ice.

Photos

0 Comments