Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 18,906 total · 124/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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From Paradise, take Skyline Trail and Snowfield Route to Camp Muir. All climbing above this point requires a permit.
From Camp Muir, head across the Cowlitz Glacier to Cathedral Ridge. Pass through one of the three notches on the ridge. Usually the center notch.
Climb scree to the ridgecrest and on to the Ingraham Glacier.
Cross the Ingraham Glacier to Disappointment Cleaver. Follow this to a snowfield and wander to the top.

This is the most popular route on the mountain and the normal route of the guide service. It is usually a well worn trail to the summit.

Descend by same route.

All climbers must register at the Ranger Station.


From Paradise (5557'), take the Skyline trail and Snowfield route to Camp Muir.


Warm and foul weather clothing, headlamp, ice axe, rope, crampons and whatever other safety gear that you desire.


  Mod. Snow
  Mod. Snow
Basically a trail to the top. Aug 25, 2010
minden, nevada
Gill   minden, nevada
Is the Ingraham direct or the disappointment cleaver climbed in late April at all?

Has anyone done it then?

Any advice on the subject would be helpful.

I can't climb it in the summer because of work. Sep 5, 2011
Dan Spirgen
orem, ut
Dan Spirgen   orem, ut
This is the route that most people take on guided trips. Easiest way up. Amazing view. Not really technical other than the risk of falling in to a crevasse. Jun 25, 2013
RustyLane   Minneapolis
Not always about how technical or hard, its about the journey. Jan 5, 2014
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Bring skis to camp Muir if you want to take the easy way down. Skiing is way better than boot packing down. For us it was a 49 minute descent of mostly corn skiing. Highly recommended. Jun 1, 2016
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
Ease of doing this route highly dependent on route conditions. People have died trying it in bad (icy) conditions. A web site exists every year that reports conditions. Can ask the rangers or RMI for best time of year to summit.
My guess is typically July has the best all around conditions but that may be outdated. Jan 1, 2018
joe sakel  
always fun to take an inflatable tube and sled down from Camp Muir to the base of snowfields--- would highly recommend camping on Ingraham Glacier right after coming through cathedral ridge - easier for that early morning alpine start. Feb 17, 2019