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Routes in Mount Rainier

Central Mowich Face AI3-4 Steep Snow
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Emmons Glacier Mod. Snow
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Ingraham Glacier Direct Mod. Snow
Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleaver Route T Mod. Snow
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Liberty Ridge AI2-3 Steep Snow
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Skookum Falls WI4+
Sunset Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI1-2 Steep Snow
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,737 total · 107/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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From Paradise, take Skyline Trail and Snowfield Route to Camp Muir. All climbing above this point requires a permit.
From Camp Muir, head across the Cowlitz Glacier to Cathedral Ridge. Pass through one of the three notches on the ridge. Usually the center notch.
Climb scree to the ridgecrest and on to the Ingraham Glacier.
Cross the Ingraham Glacier to Disappointment Cleaver. Follow this to a snowfield and wander to the top.

This is the most popular route on the mountain and the normal route of the guide service. It is usually a well worn trail to the summit.

Descend by same route.

All climbers must register at the Ranger Station.


From Paradise (5557'), take the Skyline trail and Snowfield route to Camp Muir.


Warm and foul weather clothing, headlamp, ice axe, rope, crampons and whatever other safety gear that you desire.


Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
Ease of doing this route highly dependent on route conditions. People have died trying it in bad conditions. A web site exists every year that reports conditions. Can ask the rangers or RMI for best time of year to summit.
My guess is typically July has the best all around conditions but that may be outdated. Jan 1, 2018
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Bring skis to camp Muir if you want to take the easy way down. Skiing is way better than boot packing down. For us it was a 49 minute descent of mostly corn skiing. Highly recommended. Jun 1, 2016
RustyLane   Minneapolis
Not always about how technical or hard, its about the journey. Jan 5, 2014
Dan Spirgen
orem, ut
Dan Spirgen   orem, ut
This is the route that most people take on guided trips. Easiest way up. Amazing view. Not really technical other than the risk of falling in to a crevasse. Jun 25, 2013
minden, nevada
Gill   minden, nevada
Is the Ingraham direct or the disappointment cleaver climbed in late April at all?

Has anyone done it then?

Any advice on the subject would be helpful.

I can't climb it in the summer because of work. Sep 5, 2011
Basically a trail to the top. Aug 25, 2010

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