| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.28703, -71.05746 |
| FA: | Bob Parrot, Rob Adair and Harry Tucker '93 |
| Page Views: | 1,991 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ladd Raine on Jun 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
First climb on the cliff although not the most classic.
P1: Climb the off-width crack (5.11a, Crux)after climbing up and traversing left a little, do glorious battle with innumerable massive spiders (you will lose, but continue in style!) climb out of the off-width and mantle a ledge with a bolts on it, mantle the ledge above it, don't fall here! Reach for the last couple of moves and find the anchor, 2 ring bolts that could use replacement.
P2: Climb the corner above with one bolt (5.10+) to a slab where you can find minimal pro (5.10-) traverse over and to the right into the corner that leads to the top of the cliff, continue the dihedral to the top (5.10c/d).
This is an awesome climb, unfortunately it is consistently plagued by spiders, lichen and poor quality rock in the off-width, which makes the climb a bit harder than 5.11a in my opinion. Maybe it is 5.11a if it is clean and spider free, but the sphincter pucker factor increases the grade significantly.



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