Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 44.28703, -71.05746
FA: Bob Parrot, Rob Adair and Harry Tucker '93
Page Views: 1,991 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Jun 6, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

First climb on the cliff although not the most classic.

P1: Climb the off-width crack (5.11a, Crux)after climbing up and traversing left a little, do glorious battle with innumerable massive spiders (you will lose, but continue in style!) climb out of the off-width and mantle a ledge with a bolts on it, mantle the ledge above it, don't fall here! Reach for the last couple of moves and find the anchor, 2 ring bolts that could use replacement.

P2: Climb the corner above with one bolt (5.10+) to a slab where you can find minimal pro (5.10-) traverse over and to the right into the corner that leads to the top of the cliff, continue the dihedral to the top (5.10c/d).

This is an awesome climb, unfortunately it is consistently plagued by spiders, lichen and poor quality rock in the off-width, which makes the climb a bit harder than 5.11a in my opinion. Maybe it is 5.11a if it is clean and spider free, but the sphincter pucker factor increases the grade significantly.

Location Suggest change

Starts from the raised ledge on the left side of the cliff, right next to Wild Child (5.11c).

Protection Suggest change

Bring some big gear for the off-width crack, and some smaller for the crack on the second pitch.
5 bolts total on first pitch, gear and one bolt for second pitch.

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