Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Parrot and Ken Reville '94
Page Views: 4,109 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Jun 6, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The Classic for the grade.

P1:Climb steep face holds up to a obvious horizontal break where you can find a weird rest for your fingers, but not your biceps(5.11a). Climb the crux of the route, an overhanging seam of broken rock with pin scars that supply interesting moves that will sap your finger strength like crazy(5.12a/b)! Keep climbing until you reach the anchor that is just short of the left facing corner.

P2: Climb the left side of the breathtaking arete making scary moves and eventually ending up on the arete way above the ground. Pull one move that is the upper crux (5.11d/12a, depending on pump) 5.12b if you connect the two pitches into one.

Incredible line. Make the trip up for this route alone, it is awesome, awe inspiring, and completely pure. This route should be on the tick list of all 5.12 climbers in NH, unfortunately it sees relatively few ascents due to the location of the cliff.

Location

Look up find the dramatic left facing corner at the top of the cliff, this climb starts directly below it.

Protection

P1:10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
P2:6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Rappel wth two ropes, or do two rappels.

Photos