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Routes in Wild River Crag

Big Red S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue by You T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fossil Club T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get a Life S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Independence S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Wild Life S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wild Thing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Elevation: 1,641 ft
GPS: 44.287, -71.057 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,963 total · 65/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jun 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

The name of this crag does a pretty good job at hinting to what you'll find here.... 140ft+ of beautiful granite in a wonderful wilderness setting, filled with proud lines; incredible aretes, amazing faces, and awesome corners.

Wild River Crag can be found Northeast of the Presidentials and North Conway. The only road to this crag is closed when snow makes it impassable and therefore climbing here is a summer/fall affair. East exposure makes for enjoyable morning climbing in the fall and a chilly afternoon. Get to the crag early to avoid the very cold temp later on in the climbing season. In the Summer the eastern exposure is perfect for those hot humid days.

Climbing started at this crag in the '70s then took off with bolted lines in the early '90s. The result is a variety of styles for anybody to enjoy. It has bolted lines, long trad pitches and absolutely no crowds! The lines range in difficulty from 5.10- to 5.13+. There are no easy warm-ups here as the easy stuff can be a bit run-out and very long and pumpy. Classics include: Wild Child (mixed, 5.11c), Blue By You (mixed, 2 pitches, 5.11a), Wild Life, and Big Red (sport, 5.11d).

I personally have seen (way too close up) a Timber Rattlesnake at the base of this crag. Beware.

Getting There

From Freyburg, Maine, take ME Rt 113 to Hastings campground (about 25 miles) then go maybe a 1/4 mi. down the road to Wild River Road (FS12) and turn left, park at the trailhead. Hike SE on the Basin Trail past swampy areas and along a stream. Eventually you will see a huge 150ft cliff coming up through the trees to your right, go that way! Takes about 1hr if you are hiking along at a normal pace (2.5 mi/hr).

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wild River Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Big Red
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Wild Life
Sport 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Get a Life
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Wild Thing
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Red
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wild Life
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches
Get a Life
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Wild Thing
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Wild River Crag »

Sun & Shade

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Climbing at Wild River is truly a memorable experience. The hike in is serene and beautiful, as you follow a stream and you are waaay back in there. The climbing is superb--steep and long. Plus, I'd say Wild River is New Hampshire's best summer cliff, since it gets a bunch of shade. Jun 8, 2007
"one of the true backcountry experiences in NH"...ahhh....glad you think so. Jun 10, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Virtually roadside climbing ! Jun 12, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
What is the deal as far as new routing here? Is it "Wilderness", so no new fixed gear at all, or simply no motorised drills, but you can still use bolts if need be? Jun 2, 2011
Morgan Patterson   CT  
yes - Wild River Wilderness

wilderness.net/index.cfm?fu…

Looks like you need permission to place fixed anchors

accessfund.org/site/apps/nl…

And of course:
Oct 7, 2011

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