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Elevation: 1,641 ft 500 m
GPS: 44.28703, -71.05746
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,106 total · 126/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Jun 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

May 24, 2024 Access road was washed out in Dec2023 rains and is closed, probably through the summer of 2024 at least. Campground is also closed.

Wilderness Area - The Wild River Wilderness area was created in 2006. The bolted lines on this crag were developed before that date ( even Independence seems to have been bolted prior to the 2010 FA) Currently new fixed anchors / protection are to be avoided. 

The name of this crag does a pretty good job at hinting to what you'll find here.... 140ft+ of beautiful granite in a wonderful wilderness setting, filled with proud lines; incredible aretes, amazing faces, and awesome corners.

Wild River Crag can be found Northeast of the Presidentials and North Conway. The only road to this crag (Wild River Road, off of Rt113 ) is closed when snow makes it impassable and therefore climbing here is a summer/fall affair. East exposure makes for enjoyable morning climbing in the fall and a chilly afternoon. Get to the crag early to avoid the very cold temp later on in the climbing season. In the Summer the eastern exposure is perfect for those hot humid days.

Climbing started at this crag in the '70s then took off with bolted lines in the early '90s. The result is a variety of styles for anybody to enjoy. It has bolted lines, long trad pitches and absolutely no crowds! The lines range in difficulty from 5.10- to 5.13+. There are no easy warm-ups here as the easy stuff can be a bit run-out and very long and pumpy. Classics include: Wild Child (mixed, 5.11c), Blue By You (mixed, 2 pitches, 5.11a), Wild Life, and Big Red (sport, 5.11d).

I personally have seen (way too close up) a Timber Rattlesnake at the base of this crag. Beware.

Getting There Suggest change


Wild River Crag is located northwest of the height of land of Evens Notch. The usual access is to drive to the end of the ( dirt) Wild River Road and take the Basin trail south from the WMNF WR Campground. 

There are two ways to get to the Wild River Campground: 1) Go over Pinkham Notch on Rt16, turn right on Rt2 in Gorham, take that into Maine and turn right (south) on Rt 113. Take this a few miles to a right onto the (dirt) Wild River Road. Follow this to the campground at the end. If my memory is correct the trailhead parking is on the left just at the “ entrance” of the campground. …Or 2) From Fryeburg area take Rt 113 north up and over Evans Notch, dropping down a few miles to a left onto Wild River Road. Follow to campground. Route 1 is probably faster from North Conway, while the second route is probably faster from Maine areas.

Once parked take the Basin Trail South about 1 1/2  miles and the crag should be obvious on the right across the small stream. (See photo “ Wild River Crag from trail just above where climber’s path leaves to cross the stream” , as well as photos of the stream itself that you’ll pass before you get to this crossing.)

Alternate- It is also possible to reach WRCrag from the south by parking at WMNF Basin Pond day-use/ Campground on the south “ end” of Evans Notch and taking the  Basin Trail north 2.3 miles to where it intersects the Basin Rim Trail. Stay on the Basin Trail 1/4 mile as it drops down the other side of the ridge,pass a side trail on the left going back to the ridge , and then continue down Basin Trail another 1/2 mile, with the crag  now on your left. If you reach where the Basin Trail crosses the stream you’ve gone 1/4 mile too far. This approach adds about 1 1/2 miles and about 1000 vertical feet to the approach, but can be used if the WRRoad is still closed, and/or the Road over the Notch is still closed. 

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wild River Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 27
Big Red
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Wild Child
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 21
Wild Life
Sport 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Get a Life
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 10
Wild Thing
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 6
Independence
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Red
 27
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wild Child
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wild Life
 21
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches
Get a Life
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Wild Thing
 10
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Independence
 6
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Wild River Crag »

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