Wild River Crag Rock Climbing
|GPS:||44.287, -71.057 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Ladd on Jun 5, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
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DescriptionThe name of this crag does a pretty good job at hinting to what you'll find here.... 140ft+ of beautiful granite in a wonderful wilderness setting, filled with proud lines; incredible aretes, amazing faces, and awesome corners.
Wild River Crag can be found Northeast of the Presidentials and North Conway. The only road to this crag is closed when snow makes it impassable and therefore climbing here is a summer/fall affair. East exposure makes for enjoyable morning climbing in the fall and a chilly afternoon. Get to the crag early to avoid the very cold temp later on in the climbing season. In the Summer the eastern exposure is perfect for those hot humid days.
Climbing started at this crag in the '70s then took off with bolted lines in the early '90s. The result is a variety of styles for anybody to enjoy. It has bolted lines, long trad pitches and absolutely no crowds! The lines range in difficulty from 5.10- to 5.13+. There are no easy warm-ups here as the easy stuff can be a bit run-out and very long and pumpy. Classics include: Wild Child (mixed, 5.11c), Blue By You (mixed, 2 pitches, 5.11a), Wild Life, and Big Red (sport, 5.11d).
I personally have seen (way too close up) a Timber Rattlesnake at the base of this crag. Beware.
Getting ThereFrom Freyburg, Maine, take ME Rt 113 to Hastings campground (about 25 miles) then go maybe a 1/4 mi. down the road to Wild River Road (FS12) and turn left, park at the trailhead. Hike SE on the Basin Trail past swampy areas and along a stream. Eventually you will see a huge 150ft cliff coming up through the trees to your right, go that way! Takes about 1hr if you are hiking along at a normal pace (2.5 mi/hr).
Classic Climbing Routes at Wild River Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season