Type: Sport, 145 ft
FA: Bob Parrot and Chris Misavage '94
Page Views: 2,585 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jun 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Requires two rappels if you are climbing with only one line!

This Route can be done in one or two pitches and offers one huge pump if you sack up and go for it in one pitch.

The climb goes at a hard 5.10d if you aid the lower crux, so the crux isn't the pump it is the technical start and the demanding footwork it requires.

Climb the steep face using flakes, liebacks, crimps and big moves to gain not great holds for small rests along the way.

The crux is at the third of 12 bolts.

Location

The big red line on the left/center portion of cliff, 30' right of Wild Thing(5.13).

Protection

12 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
The best single pitch of climbing at the grade I know of. Nov 15, 2008
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
.....except that it's a bolted crack. This pitch IS fantastic, but the bolts are a shame. Nov 20, 2008
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Ya I'm not sure what Bob was thinking. He explained it to me but.....
ANYWAY a GREAT climb. On cathedral it would have 1-2 bolts and be 5.12 Mar 28, 2009
the bolts protect the independant arete to the right(get a life)big red was led w/o bolts in the upper half on the fa. the rope used to get sucked into the cams while climbing the upper corner...clipping the bolts on get a life eliminates the problem..get it? Jul 20, 2010
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Got it.....kind of. Jul 24, 2010
Phil Salahari
Holderness, NH
 
Phil Salahari   Holderness, NH
 
A couple of observations that are not in line with the description above:
-A 70m gets you to the ground from the top of P2
-P2 has one bolt at the start, the rest is protected by a few #0.75 to #2 camalot-sized pieces.

Like Wild Life, this is a 2 pitch route that is easily (and probably deservedly) done in 1 long pitch. Jul 30, 2018