Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rob Adair, Steve Larson, Ed Webster, July 30, 1995
Page Views: 317 total · 22/month
Shared By: Andy Casler on Aug 6, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Logistically annoying to get to but excellent climbing and G-rated protection. The route climbs a beautiful, mostly-finger-sized, left-facing corner crack. If you're the first one to climb it that season, expect epic battles with huge, Aragog-sized spiders, their prolific webbing, and their innumerable offspring. And if you climb it before Aug. 1, potentially a big bird of prey that left an empty nest slightly to the right of the top out ledge.

Start at a two bolt anchor by a pine tree. Climb straight up and enjoy the fantastic crack above until you reach a big ledge. Build a directional with small nuts, then walk 25' left to belay at a big pine tree. Rap to the ground with a single 70M rope.

Location

Start by hiking up to the right side of the Wild River Crag (this part of the cliff goes into the shade early during the summer). You may choose to rope up here. If not, you're soloing to get to the belay anchors at the climb's start. Scramble left onto a 4th-class, sloping ledge (bad fall potential, especially at the slick, mossy start). It's possible to clip a low bolt on the sloping ledge before you descend a 5th-class down climb onto a lower ledge, which is also partially covered in slick moss. Traverse to the far left side of the lower ledge near a pine tree, where you will find a two-bolt belay. Have your follower rappel off the single bolt in order to reach the belay.

Protection

Single rack to No. 3 Camalot and a set of nuts. 70M rope to get down

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