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Routes in The Buttermilk Boulder

Aroma Therapy V3 6A
Bolt On Top V1 5
Conceptual Therapy V6 7A
Dilemma Tree V5 6C
Gene Therapy V0 4
Grab The Junk V0-1 4+
Realms, Regions, and Concepts V2-3 5+
Runaway V4+ 6B+
Sandy Landing V0 4
Splendid V0 4
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,639 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 14, 2007 with updates from Graham O.
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

There is no bolt on top, but there used to be.
Highball

This spectacular slab is a classic and committing intro to the grade. Beginners, visitors and locals often swarm this climb simply due to it's quality. This may sound annoying, but their pads will save your butt if you fall. This is the classic line for the grade at Boulder Natural and Pawtuckaway.

Stand start on good crimps about 4 feet left of the big sidepull flake feature that is the start of Sandy Landing(v0)directly below a big flakey jug halfway up the wall. A few fun crimpy moves get you to the jug. Grab a good crimp, and make the crux reach to a good edge. Injuries could occur from falling off of this move. Hit the lip and mantel.

Original description: "Climb the face with ease and top out this great highball with a flat landing."

Location

Central line on Buttermilk Boulder.

Protection

Pads and Spotter.
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
This thing is pure fun but I do not know why someone ever put the bolt on the top its not that big... May 2, 2009
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
  V0
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
  V0
I honestly feel that this was no harder than 5.8+, and is very fun. Oct 24, 2010
jlota
Portland, ME
  V1
jlota   Portland, ME
  V1
This is a great problem to get your head in the game for highballs. Good holds, good feet, just breathe and send! Oct 25, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  V1-
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  V1-
Someone heavily chalked and X'd the top-most big hold. It' flexes ever so slightly when pulled on hard, I wouldn't worry, but people should know.

It goes alright without that hold, just a little more techy at the top. Oct 28, 2012
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
  V1
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
  V1
First climb of this video:
vimeo.com/53797440

(Disclaimer: I'm unclear whether or not this was the official start or not - either way some more clarity could help in the description instead of just "climb the face with ease.") Nov 18, 2012
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This is a cool boulder. So high, but so moderate. Good training for your head.

There are several variations. Try going left to the arete when you are halfway up!! Traverse pro baby!

Don't fall- It's high! Jul 29, 2014
Charlie Boulanger
Tilton, New Hampshire
  V1 R
Charlie Boulanger   Tilton, New Hampshire
  V1 R
Great highball climb for a beginner. I feel like if you are 2/3rds of the way up and you start getting nervous going for the left side/arete is probably the easiest way up. Oct 5, 2014
Graham O.
  V1- PG13
Graham O.  
  V1- PG13
This thing is so awesome! I don't know of any real crux, but the move to the upper flake is sort of mentally taxing. This is by far my favorite v1 at P-Way. If you haven't done it, no matter how hard you climb, do it!! Jul 6, 2016

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