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Routes in The Buttermilk Boulder

Type: Boulder, 6 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 645 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jesse Coburn on Oct 15, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

The book calls this one v5. I thought it was soft, and I know other people agree it is soft. Start with opposing side pulls. Both side pulls are good. The crux figuring out where to put your feet. The huge foot isn't a sucker. Left foot on the huge foot and right way right smeared on good texture. Position your butt right to get yourself off the ground. Throw hard up and left to a good crimp, and match it. Move your feet up and find two slopers that are set kinda far apart. Next work you way to a good crimp and pull up and over the edge. Clean the crimp off. I fell from there crimping on pine needles...

Location

left of Realms, Regions, and Concepts. Three feet right of the tree (like the book says). It's on the bolt on top boulder.

Protection

just a pad. its a short problem

Photos

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Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  V4+
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  V4+
I agree with Eric, it's a fun problem. I differ from the description in that I used a decent right hand sloper on the lip rather than matching the crimp before moving left.

Footage at 3:33.

vimeo.com/80654740 Dec 10, 2013
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
  V4+
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
  V4+
Did this climb today. This thing should get more attention! It's a nice moderate that fills the gap between the hobbit and ride the lightning...

Here's the send (Starts @ ~3:20):
vimeo.com/53565022 Sep 15, 2012
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
  V4+
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
  V4+
Runaway at 1:45 -
youtube.com/watch?v=Axnb6hf… Dec 27, 2011