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Bolt On Top

V1, Boulder,  Avg: 3 from 190 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Boulder Natural > Buttermilk Boulder
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Description

There is no bolt on top, but there used to be.
Highball

This spectacular slab is a classic and committing intro to the grade. Beginners, visitors and locals often swarm this climb simply due to it's quality. This may sound annoying, but their pads will save your butt if you fall. This is the classic line for the grade at Boulder Natural and Pawtuckaway.

Stand start on good crimps about 4 feet left of the big sidepull flake feature that is the start of Sandy Landing(v0)directly below a big flakey jug halfway up the wall. A few fun crimpy moves get you to the jug. Grab a good crimp, and make the crux reach to a good edge. Injuries could occur from falling off of this move. Hit the lip and mantel.

Original description: "Climb the face with ease and top out this great highball with a flat landing."

Location

Central line on Buttermilk Boulder.

Protection

Pads and Spotter.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Buttermilk boulder - Bolt on top
[Hide Photo] Buttermilk boulder - Bolt on top
Good edges
[Hide Photo] Good edges
Timmy on Bolt on Top
[Hide Photo] Timmy on Bolt on Top
A good warm up V1 w/ easy hands.
[Hide Photo] A good warm up V1 w/ easy hands.
Taylor working out the height crux on this problem
[Hide Photo] Taylor working out the height crux on this problem
Alex climbing on a variation of bolt on top
[Hide Photo] Alex climbing on a variation of bolt on top
Evergreen hides the cruxish part (finding the good crimp). I warm up on this every time I boulder in the zoo.
[Hide Photo] Evergreen hides the cruxish part (finding the good crimp). I warm up on this every time I boulder in the zoo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
 
[Hide Comment] This thing is pure fun but I do not know why someone ever put the bolt on the top its not that big... May 2, 2009
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
  V0
[Hide Comment] I honestly feel that this was no harder than 5.8+, and is very fun. Oct 24, 2010
jlota
Portland, ME
  V1
[Hide Comment] This is a great problem to get your head in the game for highballs. Good holds, good feet, just breathe and send! Oct 25, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  V1-
[Hide Comment] Someone heavily chalked and X'd the top-most big hold. It' flexes ever so slightly when pulled on hard, I wouldn't worry, but people should know.

It goes alright without that hold, just a little more techy at the top. Oct 28, 2012
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
  V1
[Hide Comment] First climb of this video:
vimeo.com/53797440

(Disclaimer: I'm unclear whether or not this was the official start or not - either way some more clarity could help in the description instead of just "climb the face with ease.") Nov 18, 2012
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] This is a cool boulder. So high, but so moderate. Good training for your head.

There are several variations. Try going left to the arete when you are halfway up!! Traverse pro baby!

Don't fall- It's high! Jul 29, 2014
Charlie Boulanger
Tilton, New Hampshire
  V1 R
[Hide Comment] Great highball climb for a beginner. I feel like if you are 2/3rds of the way up and you start getting nervous going for the left side/arete is probably the easiest way up. Oct 5, 2014
Brandon Bornholdt
Boston, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Calm, easy climbing - a great problem for those who enjoy a relaxing highball experience. Would not recommend for newer outdoor climbers. You'll flow up this if you aren't bothered by soloing/highballs, otherwise you may overthink your way up. X rated is a stretch. Oct 21, 2019