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Routes in Sun Towers

Betty and Ray's Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Claret Cup Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack of Don T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daffy Duck Pinnacle T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dovercourt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Phaethon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shady Character T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Owls Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown offwidth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waitin' For Wane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Eakle and Barry Young, 7/95
Page Views: 180 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on May 13, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb up the chimney for about 30 feet until a roof blocks your way. Face traverse left and gain a wonderful zig-zagging hand and finger crack. Continue up this crack to the top.

Highly recommended variation: Start left of the huge roof on the left. Traverse to the right under the roof, utilizing a tips to off finger crack (awesome). Pass the roof and set up a semi-hanging belay. Continue straight up the great zig-zagging crack to the top.

Descent: Walk right and rap from the bolts for Dovercourt.

Location

About 30 feet downhill, left of Dovercourt.

Protection

Nuts and cams: small to wide hands. Extra tight hand pieces make for a nice belay on the variation.

Photos

Jeremy Werlin
  5.9+
Jeremy Werlin  
  5.9+
A bit contrived, but so much fun it is highly recommended. The lower section is interesting, too. Standard rack up to 1 #3 Camalot. May 17, 2010