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> Sun Towers
Phaethon
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Sun Towers
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Betty and Ray's Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Claret Cup Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack of Don T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dovercourt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Phaethon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shady Character T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown offwidth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Waitin' For Wane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Skyeler Congdon- onsight free solo |
| Page Views: | 2,409 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Jun 7, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: PRIVATE PROPERTY: CLOSED
Details
Sun Towers is on private property and currently closed to climbing. It is posted no trespassing. Please respect the closure to not jeopardize possible future access.
Description
"Suppose I give you the chariot: what will you do? Will you be able to confront the whirling poles, and prevent the reeling vault of heaven from sweeping you away?" - Ovid
P1: Climb the obvious, R-facing corner to a ledge (5.7). On the FA, I actually climbed 10 or so feet to the right of the corner for the first 30 feet before getting into the corner (no pro). Optional belay at ledge or continue up short chimney to 5.5 R face or right to a crack aiming for large roof.
P2 Climb up black rock in corner up to roof on jugs. Pull roof on the left (5.8) into thin hands and fingers. Follow striking twin cracks, "The Chariot Tracks," across the blank face, left for 40 feet then straight up to nice ledge. Belay.
Climb 50 feet of 4th class to top.
P1: Climb the obvious, R-facing corner to a ledge (5.7). On the FA, I actually climbed 10 or so feet to the right of the corner for the first 30 feet before getting into the corner (no pro). Optional belay at ledge or continue up short chimney to 5.5 R face or right to a crack aiming for large roof.
P2 Climb up black rock in corner up to roof on jugs. Pull roof on the left (5.8) into thin hands and fingers. Follow striking twin cracks, "The Chariot Tracks," across the blank face, left for 40 feet then straight up to nice ledge. Belay.
Climb 50 feet of 4th class to top.
Location
West Face of Upper Sun Tower. Hike 100 yards NW beyond the notch and look for obvious black and tan corner. Can't miss it. The Chariot Tracks cannot be seen from the base of the route as they face due North.
Walk off to the North, then West back to your packs. Stay close to cliff once down for easiest path of descent.
Walk off to the North, then West back to your packs. Stay close to cliff once down for easiest path of descent.
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