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Routes in Sun Towers

Betty and Ray's Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Claret Cup Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack of Don T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daffy Duck Pinnacle T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dovercourt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Phaethon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shady Character T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Owls Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown offwidth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waitin' For Wane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Skyeler Congdon- onsight solo
Page Views: 1,458 total, 16/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Jun 7, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

"Suppose I give you the chariot: what will you do? Will you be able to confront the whirling poles, and prevent the reeling vault of heaven from sweeping you away?" - Ovid

P1: Climb the obvious, R-facing corner to a ledge (5.7). On the FA, I actually climbed 10 or so feet to the right of the corner for the first 30 feet before getting into the corner (no pro). Optional belay at ledge or continue up short chimney to 5.5 R face or right to a crack aiming for large roof.

P2 Climb up black rock in corner up to roof on jugs. Pull roof on the left (5.8) into thin hands and fingers. Follow striking twin cracks, "The Chariot Tracks," across the blank face, left for 40 feet then straight up to nice ledge. Belay.

Climb 50 feet of 4th class to top.

Location

West Face of Upper Sun Tower. Hike 100 yards NW beyond the notch and look for obvious black and tan corner. Can't miss it. The Chariot Tracks cannot be seen from the base of the route as they face due North.

Walk off to the North, then West back to your packs. Stay close to cliff once down for easiest path of descent.

Protection

Standard rack. Bring a wire brush to clean lichen out of second pitch twin cracks.

Photos

Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.8
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.8
Nice route. Once it is used some more/cleaned up a bit, it will be really nice. Once reaching the top of the large, right-facing corner on pitch one, the beginning of the second pitch is not so obvious. The route moves up and slightly left. Once up a little higher, the large roof/alcove with black rock is obvious (pitch two). We belayed at a ledge below a small wall just below the roof. Feb 21, 2013