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> Sun Towers
Betty and Ray's Adventure
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.1 from 23
votes
Routes in Sun Towers
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Betty and Ray's Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Claret Cup Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack of Don T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dovercourt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Phaethon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shady Character T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown offwidth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Waitin' For Wane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,330 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Marr on May 2, 2005 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: PRIVATE PROPERTY: CLOSED
Details
Sun Towers is on private property and currently closed to climbing. It is posted no trespassing. Please respect the closure to not jeopardize possible future access.
Description
This three pitch route is located on the Upper Tower and climbs the right side of the arête. The climb itself wanders a bit and generally follows the line of least resistance to the summit (many variations are possible). Most of this route is in the shadows during the evening.
P1. Climb a steep dihedral directly across from Dovercourt. From the top of the dihedral, angle up and left, passing a headwall on your left. Continue a full rope length and belay on one of many ledges.
P2. Climb a rather non-descript full rope length up small dihedrals and cracks, again keeping to the right of the arête.
P3. Short scramble to the top of the tower, belay using small trees at the top of the ridge. Great views back up the canyon.
To descend, the guide recommends scrambling off to the northeast and following the low angle slabs to a descent trail. Probably a better option than our descent. We followed the ridge to a point where we could scramble down to the west, and then followed the base of the rock back to the notch between the two towers.
P1. Climb a steep dihedral directly across from Dovercourt. From the top of the dihedral, angle up and left, passing a headwall on your left. Continue a full rope length and belay on one of many ledges.
P2. Climb a rather non-descript full rope length up small dihedrals and cracks, again keeping to the right of the arête.
P3. Short scramble to the top of the tower, belay using small trees at the top of the ridge. Great views back up the canyon.
To descend, the guide recommends scrambling off to the northeast and following the low angle slabs to a descent trail. Probably a better option than our descent. We followed the ridge to a point where we could scramble down to the west, and then followed the base of the rock back to the notch between the two towers.
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