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Routes in Sun Towers

Betty and Ray's Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Claret Cup Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack of Don T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daffy Duck Pinnacle T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dovercourt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Phaethon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shady Character T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Owls Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown offwidth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waitin' For Wane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,406 total, 16/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on May 2, 2005
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This three pitch route is located on the Upper Tower and climbs the right side of the arĂȘte. The climb itself wanders a bit and generally follows the line of least resistance to the summit (many variations are possible). Most of this route is in the shadows during the evening.

P1. Climb a steep dihedral directly across from Dovercourt. From the top of the dihedral, angle up and left, passing a headwall on your left. Continue a full rope length and belay on one of many ledges.

P2. Climb a rather non-descript full rope length up small dihedrals and cracks, again keeping to the right of the arĂȘte.

P3. Short scramble to the top of the tower, belay using small trees at the top of the ridge. Great views back up the canyon.

To descend, the guide recommends scrambling off to the northeast and following the low angle slabs to a descent trail. Probably a better option than our descent. We followed the ridge to a point where we could scramble down to the west, and then followed the base of the rock back to the notch between the two towers.

Protection

Standard rack - Set of stoppers, hexes, and medium-sized cams.

Photos

Russell Cronin
Grand Junction, CO
Russell Cronin   Grand Junction, CO
I had this exact question on Saturday. Based on the the description of pitch 1 where it says "angle up and left", I explored out to the left across the ledge to that little separated tower, but this didn't seem to be right. After deciding to call it for the evening, I reread in the route description that it keeps mostly to the right of the arete and is shaded in the evening (the wall to the left was in full sun). So when I go back, I'll choose the right arrow.... Oct 23, 2017
Nick Esker
Golden
Nick Esker   Golden
1-star climbing and gear; 4-star position, views, and fun factor.

In response to the question above, we veered left above the crack, then came back right a little to follow roughly the highest point on the ridge. I peeked out right a few times at what looked like much easier climbing but didn't see anything in terms of decent protection. The left side wasn't much better, but it did offer some sparse, small, mediocre gear.

I'm curious to see what lines others took and if they offer better rock and pro.

There was a small light pole topper near the topout wedged into some rock. Weird! Oct 18, 2017
Mike K
Grand Junction, CO
Mike K   Grand Junction, CO
Just curious which way the route goes after the dihedral on the first pitch? Can't tell from the pictures or description. Thanks.
Mar 8, 2017