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Routes in Sun Towers

Betty and Ray's Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Claret Cup Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack of Don T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daffy Duck Pinnacle T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dovercourt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Phaethon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shady Character T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Owls Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown offwidth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waitin' For Wane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob and Lisa Eakle
Page Views: 5,184 total · 33/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on May 2, 2005
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Great route! Dovercourt is located at the very top of the Lower Tower and climbs to the highest point on the rock. Start opposite of a large dihedral at the base of the Upper Tower (the start of Betty and Ray's Adventure) at the base of a smooth, steep face.

The climb generally follows the thin, discontinuous cracks up the center of the face. Start left of the dihedral and climb the face to a small flake/overhang (good cam placement in the horizontal crack). Continue up past the route's lone bolt on small ledges. Above the bolt, the cracks tend to flare, and protection is more difficult to find (mostly small stoppers and TCUs in horizontal placements). Near the top, you can reach to the left and find some great hands on the arĂȘte. Finish at a two-bolt anchor just below the top and rap with a single rope (you can also down climb class 4 along the northwest corner). Fun route with thin holds and protection.

Protection

Small cams, TCUs, small stoppers and micronuts. One bolt and rappel anchors.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Just want to mirror to comments, this is a stellar single pitch 5.7.

A must do if you're looking for a good moderate in the valley. Sep 17, 2013
Very high quality--pro may be tricky for a budding 5.7 leader. Excellent clean polished rock. Good shade route. Bring lots of small/micro cams. May 17, 2010
Matt Ting
  5.7
Matt Ting  
  5.7
Great route indeed - highlight of a day spent on the lower tower. The location is awesome with amazing views that add some exposure and excitement to this short route. True to the rating, nice horizontal cracks where you need them, good feet, good protection to be found (used 2 nuts, 3 s/med cams). For pure enjoyment, best 5.7 I've been on in awhile. Oct 8, 2008

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