Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob and Lisa Eakle
Page Views: 5,696 total · 34/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on May 2, 2005
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Great route! Dovercourt is located at the very top of the Lower Tower and climbs to the highest point on the rock. Start opposite of a large dihedral at the base of the Upper Tower (the start of Betty and Ray's Adventure) at the base of a smooth, steep face.

The climb generally follows the thin, discontinuous cracks up the center of the face. Start left of the dihedral and climb the face to a small flake/overhang (good cam placement in the horizontal crack). Continue up past the route's lone bolt on small ledges. Above the bolt, the cracks tend to flare, and protection is more difficult to find (mostly small stoppers and TCUs in horizontal placements). Near the top, you can reach to the left and find some great hands on the arĂȘte. Finish at a two-bolt anchor just below the top and rap with a single rope (you can also down climb class 4 along the northwest corner). Fun route with thin holds and protection.

Protection

Small cams, TCUs, small stoppers and micronuts. One bolt and rappel anchors.

Photos

Matt Ting
  5.7
Matt Ting  
  5.7
Great route indeed - highlight of a day spent on the lower tower. The location is awesome with amazing views that add some exposure and excitement to this short route. True to the rating, nice horizontal cracks where you need them, good feet, good protection to be found (used 2 nuts, 3 s/med cams). For pure enjoyment, best 5.7 I've been on in awhile. Oct 8, 2008
Jeremy Werlin
Cedaredge, CO
 
Jeremy Werlin   Cedaredge, CO
 
Very high quality--pro may be tricky for a budding 5.7 leader. Excellent clean polished rock. Good shade route. Bring lots of small/micro cams. May 17, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
 
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
 
Just want to mirror to comments, this is a stellar single pitch 5.7.

A must do if you're looking for a good moderate in the valley. Sep 17, 2013