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Dovercourt
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.5 from 32
votes
Routes in Sun Towers
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Betty and Ray's Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Claret Cup Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack of Don T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dovercourt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Phaethon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shady Character T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sunup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown offwidth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Waitin' For Wane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Bob and Lisa Eakle |
| Page Views: | 7,565 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Marr on May 2, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: PRIVATE PROPERTY: CLOSED
Details
Sun Towers is on private property and currently closed to climbing. It is posted no trespassing. Please respect the closure to not jeopardize possible future access.
Description
Great route! Dovercourt is located at the very top of the Lower Tower and climbs to the highest point on the rock. Start opposite of a large dihedral at the base of the Upper Tower (the start of Betty and Ray's Adventure) at the base of a smooth, steep face.
The climb generally follows the thin, discontinuous cracks up the center of the face. Start left of the dihedral and climb the face to a small flake/overhang (good cam placement in the horizontal crack). Continue up past the route's lone bolt on small ledges. Above the bolt, the cracks tend to flare, and protection is more difficult to find (mostly small stoppers and TCUs in horizontal placements). Near the top, you can reach to the left and find some great hands on the arête. Finish at a two-bolt anchor just below the top and rap with a single rope (you can also down climb class 4 along the northwest corner). Fun route with thin holds and protection.
The climb generally follows the thin, discontinuous cracks up the center of the face. Start left of the dihedral and climb the face to a small flake/overhang (good cam placement in the horizontal crack). Continue up past the route's lone bolt on small ledges. Above the bolt, the cracks tend to flare, and protection is more difficult to find (mostly small stoppers and TCUs in horizontal placements). Near the top, you can reach to the left and find some great hands on the arête. Finish at a two-bolt anchor just below the top and rap with a single rope (you can also down climb class 4 along the northwest corner). Fun route with thin holds and protection.
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