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Shady Character
5.9+,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: Bob Eakle and Barry Young, 7/95
Colorado
> Grand Junction…
> Unaweep Canyon
> Main Canyon: Un…
> Sun Tower Complex
> Sun Towers
Access Issue: PRIVATE PROPERTY: CLOSED
Details
Sun Towers is on private property and currently closed to climbing. It is posted no trespassing. Please respect the closure to not jeopardize possible future access.
Description
Climb up the chimney for about 30 feet until a roof blocks your way. Face traverse left and gain a wonderful zig-zagging hand and finger crack. Continue up this crack to the top.
Highly recommended variation: Start left of the huge roof on the left. Traverse to the right under the roof, utilizing a tips to off finger crack (awesome). Pass the roof and set up a semi-hanging belay. Continue straight up the great zig-zagging crack to the top.
Descent: Walk right and rap from the bolts for
Dovercourt.
Location
About 30 feet downhill, left of Dovercourt.
Protection
Nuts and cams: small to wide hands. Extra tight hand pieces make for a nice belay on the variation.
![At the first belay.<br>
The finger traverse left that leads to the great upper crack can just be seen at the top of the photo.]()
[Hide Photo] At the first belay. The finger traverse left that leads to the great upper crack can just be seen at the top of the photo.
![The roof variation]()
[Hide Photo] The roof variation
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Cedaredge, CO