Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Red Springs Rock Lower Tier (aka Jabba the Hutt Rock)

Aliens Have Landed T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Carrie Fissure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hans Soloing T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Obie-One Keone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shallow Fried Cracken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wookie Farts T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,173 total · 8/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This would only be used as a good warm up or possibly for a new trad climber looking for some really easy terrain. There really is no crux. This route is a good climb to set up a top rope for the fun crack "Aliens Have Landed".

Location

Climb the LOW-angled ramp about 15-20 feet left of the obvious vertical crack on the face. Descent requires walk off and you should take the second gully left (south) from the top of the formation. Easy Descent!

Protection

Take a small trad rack up to about 2 inches plus up to 3.5 for the anchors on top. NOTE: Brock/McMIllan guidebook lists this route as a top rope; you CAN definitely get some solid placements -- just use some common sense and don't place your cam in some cat-litter-quality rock!!

Photos

Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  Easy 5th
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
  Easy 5th
Great climb to take beginner climbers up. Oct 12, 2012
Sean Stoops
Henderson, NV
 
Sean Stoops   Henderson, NV
 
For a beginner, I'd find somewhere else with higher quality rock. Placements here can definitely be found, but I'd say it's a bit challenging to protect given most horizontal cracks are crumbly. Oct 13, 2014
Wes B.
  5.4
Wes B.  
  5.4
To my surprise I found a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb. Jan 22, 2015
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.4
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.4
There are a ton of places where micro and large cams will fit, not a ton for mid-size cams. Given the mediocre rock quality we were looking to zip it up but as a result we were running out of gear near the top. Definitely an easy climb, but I'd only recommend it to set up a TR for other routes--there's plenty of nicer rock in Red Rock even for beginners. Apr 24, 2017
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
Lot of pro in the beginning, we were not sure if the route went further up on the shoulder or out on the face of the wall. I went with the right face. Stuck a lot of cams and felt out of the pieces I needed towards the top. It definitely felt sketch for a 5.4 - but should not be overlooked, it's a great test of nerve for the beginning trad climber and it gets in the shade mid-day. Ledge up top makes for a good top belay - anchors out on the face.

Would love to go back and toprope or maybe lead the other crack climbs here. Jun 14, 2017
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
 
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
 
Don’t bring beginners here. The rock is very breakable on account of lots of thin horizontal micro “ledges” every few inches. Between these is where gear is mostly placed which I don’t think would feel bomber. Didn’t lead it though. Was practicing rope soloing.

There is a two bolt anchor on top of this easily accessed from the top of the Crag for top roping if desired. Dec 24, 2017
Jess Arnold
Minneapolis, MN
  5.3
Jess Arnold   Minneapolis, MN
  5.3
Despite the easy grade and consistent slab, I would also refrain from bringing a beginning leader here. Lack of solid placement spots throughout. Extremely easy standing stances lulled me into pulling outwards on stoppers to test placements and thus almost blowing my feet/falling backwards. Jan 11, 2018

More About Hans Soloing

Printer-Friendly