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Routes in Red Springs Rock Lower Tier (aka Jabba the Hutt Rock)

Aliens Have Landed T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Carrie Fissure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hans Soloing T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Obie-One Keone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shallow Fried Cracken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wookie Farts T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,071 total, 8/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This would only be used as a good warm up or possibly for a new trad climber looking for some really easy terrain. There really is no crux. This route is a good climb to set up a top rope for the fun crack "Aliens Have Landed".

Location

Climb the LOW-angled ramp about 15-20 feet left of the obvious vertical crack on the face. Descent requires walk off and you should take the second gully left (south) from the top of the formation. Easy Descent!

Protection

Take a small trad rack up to about 2 inches plus up to 3.5 for the anchors on top. NOTE: Brock/McMIllan guidebook lists this route as a top rope; you CAN definitely get some solid placements -- just use some common sense and don't place your cam in some cat-litter-quality rock!!

Photos

LB Edwards
Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
LB Edwards   Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
Lot of pro in the beginning, we were not sure if the route went further up on the shoulder or out on the face of the wall. I went with the right face. Stuck a lot of cams and felt out of the pieces I needed towards the top. It definitely felt sketch for a 5.4 - but should not be overlooked, it's a great test of nerve for the beginning trad climber and it gets in the shade mid-day. Ledge up top makes for a good top belay - anchors out on the face.

Would love to go back and toprope or maybe lead the other crack climbs here. Jun 14, 2017
David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
There are a ton of places where micro and large cams will fit, not a ton for mid-size cams. Given the mediocre rock quality we were looking to zip it up but as a result we were running out of gear near the top. Definitely an easy climb, but I'd only recommend it to set up a TR for other routes--there's plenty of nicer rock in Red Rock even for beginners. Apr 24, 2017
Wes B.
  5.4
Wes B.  
  5.4
To my surprise I found a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb. Jan 22, 2015
Sean Stoops
Henderson, NV
 
Sean Stoops   Henderson, NV
 
For a beginner, I'd find somewhere else with higher quality rock. Placements here can definitely be found, but I'd say it's a bit challenging to protect given most horizontal cracks are crumbly. Oct 13, 2014
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  Easy 5th
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  Easy 5th
Great climb to take beginner climbers up. Oct 12, 2012