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Routes in Red Springs Rock Lower Tier (aka Jabba the Hutt Rock)

Aliens Have Landed T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Carrie Fissure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hans Soloing T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Obie-One Keone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shallow Fried Cracken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wookie Farts T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd Swain & Patty Gill
Page Views: 1,000 total, 8/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Apr 15, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Surprisingly fun route with great moves and lots of varied climbing. This would be a pretty serious lead with some THIN gear placements. Starts with a boulder problem type start then moves left to the twin thin cracks/seams to the top of the cliff.

Location

This route is about 20 feet to the right of Shallow Fried Cracken and is easy to spot as it is the only climb with a bolt on this entire wall; start on the steep face under the bolt.

Protection

There is one bolt with a bad unrated hanger about 15 feet up from the start of the climb. Then use some really thin gear and follow the thin cracks to the top. Take some gear and you can build an anchor off the large blocks on top of the climb. Walk off left as per "Aliens Have Landed". This climb is pretty easy to set up as a top rope!!
Manderson198
  5.10a/b
Manderson198  
  5.10a/b
Climbed this today. I thought this route was a whole lot of fun! Maybe it's cleaned up since some of these comments were made, but the rock was in fairly decent shape. The beginning was solid varnish, and the sandstone above was clean, if you avoided the obvious (unnecessary) bad flakes.

The start is very bouldery, but not too difficult. You can place a cam in the crack, but any fall after you reach the lip would surely result in decking. That being said, it's jug city after the initial powerful move. The bolt is an old homemade hangar that MIGHT hold a fall. However, there is solid gear soon after, so falling on the bolt directly is unlikely...

Generally, I thought the gear on this route was pretty solid. Handren suggests a rack up to 3", but the largest piece I used was a .75 X4. Likewise, there was absolutely no need for micronuts, if you're comfortable running it out for more than 10 feet in places. The smallest piece I used was a 0 Mastercam, and it was about as solid as you could hope for. In fact, I only used a single offset nut on the route, and I never really felt like I was being too bold. The nearby route, Shallow Fried Cracken, felt like a headier lead, and that route felt considerably easier (physically).

The crux of the route, to me, was just after moving into the left-facing corner. You climb some pretty cool pin-scar-like pods, with a combination of edging and smearing. A few solid finger locks make this manageable. Good stuff!

All in all, don't be deterred by the negative comments here. This route was great, with decent protection (if you're gear-competent), and absolutely worth doing of you are cragging Jabba the Hut Rock (Handren) Oct 4, 2015
Murphski Adams
SLC, UT
 
Murphski Adams   SLC, UT
 
I climbed this quite awhile back (years.) I remember it being a total piece of shit. There's one hold with chalk all over it that seems to be the key to getting past the steep part. I watched this hold move back and forth under my foot while I was protected by one of the mankiest bolts I've seen. In the corner above I found one pod that I was able to get a questionable Red Metolious in, other than that I found nowhere to put gear (I was still pretty new to trad climbing, and I'm still pretty unsure about passive placements.) At the top I put my hand in some very fine cacti needles while I looked for the anchor (yes, I know there's never been an anchor, and after awhile I did build one.) So if super scary trad climbing with questionable placements and holds and picking cacti out of your palm is your thing, then get after this one. Jun 22, 2014
Never trust a Swain route. Good lesson to learn, chum. Aug 13, 2012
Mostafa Noori
Fresno, CA
Mostafa Noori   Fresno, CA
I made the moves down low which are pretty fun but about 40 feet up I traversed right and that was a big mistake...the rock was horrible and scary gear placements. Aug 12, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10- PG13
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10- PG13
Great lead! A very heads up one though. Great moves on decent holds and finger locks. Bring the brass and offsets. Nov 19, 2011
cslice
Longmont, CO
cslice   Longmont, CO
Did this one today...the appeal of short approach lured me in. There are so many good climbs at Red Rocks, I would not waste my time on this one. The rock was rather manky and crumbly and the moves were more annoying than fun. Oct 12, 2011
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Lead this as an on-sight 5/10/2011
The corner will command your attention. Fledgling 10 leaders may feel threatened going up the corner. May 12, 2011
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
One of the best route names EVER! Oct 10, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10- PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10- PG13
this is a serious lead with thin gear and insecure movement above it. i got through it, but be SOLID at 5.10 or you'll be very unhappy above that old ass bolt. Oct 9, 2007